Wednesday, March 9, 2022

How to Be a Devils Fan In Vancouver -- 2022 Edition

This coming Tuesday night, March 15, the New Jersey Devils will continue a Western roadtrip, playing the Vancouver Canucks, at Rogers Arena in Vancouver, British Columbia.

Before You Go. At 49 degrees, 16 minutes North latitude, Rogers Arena is further north than any U.S. major league sports venue. (Seattle's Lumen Field is the northernmost, at 47 degrees, 35 minutes.) And this is going to be mid-March, so it could be cold. And, like the American Northwest cities of Seattle and Portland, it rains. A lot. The city has been nicknamed "Raincouver."

The Vancouver Sun is predicting that temperatures will be in the low 50s by day and the low 40s by night, with, yes, rain. You'll need a jacket, but not a big bulky Winter jacket.

This is Canada, so you will need your passport. You will need to change your money. At this writing, C$1.00 = US 78 cents, and US$1.00 = C$1.29. And I advise you to call your bank and let them know that you will be in a foreign country, so they won't see credit or debit card purchases from a foreign country pop up and think your card has been stolen.

Also, remember that they use the metric system. A speed limit of 100 kilometers per hour means 62 miles an hour. And don't be fooled by the seemingly low gas prices: That's per liter, not per gallon, and, in spite of Canada being a major oil-producing nation, you'll actually be paying more for gas up there. So, in order to avoid both confusion and "sticker-shock," get your car filled up before you reach the border.

Vancouver is in the Pacific Time Zone, so they are 3 hours behind New York and New Jersey. Adjust your timepieces accordingly.

Tickets. The Canucks averaged 18,685 fans per home game in 2019-20, the last pre-COVID season, about 99 percent of capacity. Getting tickets may be tough.

Remember, these prices are in Canadian dollars. Seats in the lower level, the 100 sections, are $175 between the goals and $122 behind them. The 200 sections are club seats, and available only to season ticketholders. Seats in the upper level, the 300 sections, are $81 between the goals and $65 behind them.

Getting There. It's 2,984 miles from the Prudential Center in Newark to the Rogers Arena in Vancouver. It's 31 miles from downtown Vancouver to the closest border crossing, the Peace Arch in Blaine, Washington. This is the longest roadtrip the Devils have. If you can afford to fly, you should.

Any Air Canada flight between Newark and Vancouver will have a stopover in either Montreal or Toronto. every day, and it lands at 8:46 PM, right in the middle of a game (if it's a standard 7 PM Pacific Time start). So you'd have to leave the day before. It's going to be expensive, just under $1,000, and that's if you leave early in the morning both ways.

If that's too much, the other options aren't too good, because they're a lot longer. VIA Rail Canada's Toronto-to-Vancouver train runs only 3 days a week, throwing everything off. If you were willing to work around this schedule, which might entail a hotel for at least 3 nights, combined with the New York-to-Toronto Amtrak Maple Leaf, your train fare is going to be over US$700.

Is taking the bus any better? Not really: You'd have to change buses a whopping six times. It's $598 round-trip, but it could drop to $441 on advanced purchase.

The VIA station, Pacific Central Station, is at 1100 Station Street at National Avenue, while the Greyhound station is at 1150 Station Street, not quite next-door, but close. Main Street-Science World Station to Stadium-Chinatown Station in 6 minutes.

Could driving be any worse? Even if you get someone to go with you, and you take turns, one drives while the other one sleeps, and you pack 2 days’ worth of food, and you use the side of the Interstate as a toilet, and you don’t get pulled over for speeding, you’ll still need over 2 full days to get there. One way.

But, if you really, really think driving is a better alternative... Get onto Interstate 80 West in New Jersey, and stay on that until it merges with Interstate 90 west of Cleveland, then stay on 90 through Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, into Wisconsin, where it merges with Interstate 94. Although you could take I-90 almost all the way, I-94 is actually going to be faster. Stay on I-94 through Minnesota and North Dakota before re-merging with I-90 in Montana, taking it through Idaho and into Washington, getting off I-94 at Exit 2B to get on Interstate 5.

You'll take I-5 up to the border, past Exit 276. You'll present your passport, and you'll answer whatever questions the Customs agent has. Presuming you have everything in order and you don't do anything stupid to make him (or her) keep you out of Canada, I-5 becomes BC Highway 99, the Sea to Sky Highway. Once you cross the Lions Gate Bridge, you're in downtown Vancouver.

Not counting rest stops, you should be in New Jersey for an hour and a half, Pennsylvania for 5:15, Ohio for 4 hours, Indiana for 2:30, Illinois for 2 hours, Wisconsin for 3:15, Minnesota for 4:30, North Dakota for 6 hours, Montana for a whopping 13 hours (or 3 times the time it takes to get from New York to Boston), Idaho for 1:15, 8:45 in Washington, and half an hour in British Columbia. That's 52 and a half hours, so, with rest stops, you're talking 3 full days.

On October 14, 2016, President Obama finally ended the ban on bringing Cuban cigars into America. This also applies to rum, for which Cuba is also renowned. It is still considerably easier to buy these items in Canada than in America, but, now, you can bring them back over the border.

Once In the City. Originally named Gastown, in honor of its founder, mill baron John "Gassy Jack" Deighton, Vancouver was a product of the 1859 Western gold rush that also founded Denver. Europeans first settled in the area in 1862, Gassy Jack founded a tavern on July 1, 1867, Canada's Confederation Day (effectively, its independence from Britain although it was still part of the Empire and remains part of the Commonwealth).

It was renamed for George Vancouver, an officer of Britain's Royal Navy, who explored and charted North America's Pacific Northwest in the early 1790s. Despite having a name that could be French (VAHN-koo-VAIR, instead of Van-KOO-ver as we say today), and the city being in a country with French as a second official language, he was English through and through. The city of Vancouver, Washington, across the Columbia River from Portland, Oregon, is also named for him, as are places in Australia and New Zealand, which he also explored.

Vancouver was made possible by its selection in 1884 by the Canadian Pacific Railway as its terminus. It was incorporated as a city in 1886, and, shortly thereafter, was consumed in a Great Fire, much as Chicago had been in 1871 and Boston in 1872. Like those cities, Vancouver rebuilt quickly, and the Klondike Gold Rush of 1897-98 was exactly what the doctor ordered. By 1911, the brothers Lester and Frank Patrick were running the Vancouver Millionaires hockey team, and in 1915, they won the Stanley Cup -- still the only one in the city's history, 100 years later.

Like New York, Vancouver is a city of islands. Unlike New York, for whom the Catskills count as "mountains," Vancouver has real mountains. On a clear day, it is one of the most beautiful cities in the Western Hemisphere. Of course, as I pointed out, like the other big Pacific Northwest cities of Seattle and Portland, there are not a lot of clear days.

So, from a distance, it's beautiful. On ground level, however, it is as plagued by problems -- especially poverty, homelessness and crime -- as any city. At least it's cleaner than most American cities.

The city is home to a little over 630,000 people, including the largest percentage of Asian residents of any city in North America, about 41 percent (30 percent East Asian, 11 percent South Asian), to about 52 percent white, 2 percent Aboriginal (what we used to call "Indians"), 2 percent Middle Eastern, 1 percent black and 1 percent Hispanic.

The city would seem to be inclusive, but it does have a troubled past. There were anti-Chinese riots in January 1886, following the layoff of hundreds of workers on the Canadian Pacific Railroad the preceding November. And there were anti-Asian riots on the Pacific Coast in 1907, including in Vancouver from September 7 to 9. It is not known how many people were killed, either time.

Vancouver is Canada's 8th-largest city, behind Toronto, Montreal, Calgary, Ottawa, Edmonton, Toronto's neighbor Missisauga and Winnipeg. (Neighboring Surrey is 12th, with 470,000, and nearby Burnaby and Richmond are in the top 25.) But with 2.4 million, "Greater Vancouver" is Canada's 3rd-largest metropolitan area, behind Toronto and Montreal.

Main Street south of Vancouver Harbour, and Lonsdale Avenue north of it, divide city addresses into east and west. There is no divider into north and south, although north of the Harbour are the separate cities of North Vancouver and West Vancouver. Burnaby, New Westminster and Coquitlam are to the east, Surrey to the southeast, Richmond to the south, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Vancouver has no highway "beltway."

TransLink runs the B-Line bus service, the SkyTrain rapid rail service, the West Coast Express commuter rail, and the SeaBus ferry service. A 1 Zone fare is $2.75, 2 Zone $4.00, and 3 Zone $5.50. After 6:30 PM on weekdays and all day on weekends and holidays (including Sunday, the day of the Devils-Canucks game), discount fares apply, and buying a $2.75 1 Zone ticket will allow you to travel through all zones. And remember, that's C$2.75, making it about US$2.08, making Vancouver's SkyTrain and buses cheaper than New York's Subway and buses. A DayPass costs $9.75.
Passing by the Harbour Centre tower

The drinking age in British Columbia is 19. Postal Codes in the Province, appropriately enough, begin with the letter V. The Area Codes are 604 and 250, with 236 and 778 as overlays.

Going In. The official address for Rogers Arena is 800 Griffiths Way, at the southeastern edge of downtown. The street was named for Frank Griffiths, the media mogul who owned the team from 1974 until his death in 1994 and funded the Arena. The actual streets around it are Expo Blvd. to the west and north (separate by the elevated Dunsmuir Viaduct), Abbott Street to the east and Georgia Street to the south.
Parking is $19. The Arena can be reached by SkyTrain at Stadium-Chinatown station. If you came in this way, you will almost certainly enter the Arena from the north.

It was named General Motors Place from its 1995 opening until 2010, when it was temporarily renamed Canada Hockey Place, since Olympic rules forbid corporate names on venues. (Yes, I know: Hypocritical IOC is hypocritical.) Like the Rogers Centre in Toronto and the under-construction Rogers Place in Edmonton, it's named for Canadian network Rogers Sportsnet.

The NBA's expansion Vancouver Grizzlies played there from 1995 to 2001, but never caught on, and moved to Memphis. As the NBA's only remaining Canadian team, the Toronto Raptors play a preseason game there every year. The Arena is Vancouver's main concert venue, as was the Canucks' previous home, the Pacific Coliseum. Neither Elvis Presley nor the Beatles ever performed in Vancouver.

With the Grizzlies and the Seattle SuperSonics both gone, the closest NBA team to Vancouver is the Portland Trail Blazers, 314 miles away. But according to an article in the May 12, 2014 New York Times, the most popular NBA team in Vancouver is easily the Los Angeles Lakers, well ahead of runners-up the Miami Heat and the Chicago Bulls.

The main venue for hockey at the 2010 Winter Olympics, the Arena is across Georgia Street from BC Place, home of the CFL's British Columbia Lions and MLS' Vancouver Whitecaps. BC Place also hosted the 2011 Vanier Cup, the National Championship of Canadian college football, won by Hamilton's McMaster University over Quebec City's Université Laval.

On March 2, 2014, the Canucks hosted the Ottawa Senators at BC Place as part of the NHL's Heritage Classic series, albeit this was the 1st time an "outdoor"game was held at an indoor stadium. The Senators won, 4-2.

It hosted Soccer Bowl '83, in which the Tulsa Roughnecks beat the Toronto Blizzard 2-0, the locals having no love for that particular Canadian sports team. It hosted the 2015 Women's World Cup Final, in which the U.S. beat Japan 5-2.

One of the popular concourse attractions at the Arena is the Luc Bourdon Wall of Dreams, located at the Gate 3 entrance. The wall commemorates the life of the late Luc Bourdon, the Canucks defenseman tragically killed in a motorcycle accident in May 2009. It also boasts an inspiring display of hockey pucks honoring British Columbia’s rich hockey history.

The rink is laid out east-to-west. The Canucks attack twice toward the east end. Be warned: Its upper deck is said to be steep.
Food. Vancouver is Canada's premier western port. Which means, like San Francisco and Seattle, it is a great food city. The Arena reflects this.

The Centre Ice Grill is on the arena's north side, and the Budweiser Sports Lounge in the southwest corner. Other offerings include: Carve sandwiches at Sections 101, 117 and 321; Catch seafood at 101 and 117; Sante health food at 109, 122 and 313; Smoke's Poutinerie at 111 (I hate poutine); Nathan's Famous hot dogs at 113, 121, 301, 303, 314 and 324 (so they have that in common with the Prudential Center); Triple-O's chicken at 115 and 307; Pizza Hut at 118 and 318; Chop Asian Noodle Stir-Fry at 120; Steamers hot dogs at 120 and 320; Melt grilled cheese at 122 and 310; and Vij's Indian food at 318.

Team History Displays. The Canucks' history has been spotty. Despite playing since 1970, over half a century, they have never won the Stanley Cup. In contrast, the Devils, the Islanders, the Calgary Flames, the Edmonton Oilers, the Colorado Avalanche, the Tampa Bay Lightning, the Carolina Hurricanes, the Anaheim Ducks and the Washington Capitals, all founded after the Canucks, have won 21 Cups between them. The Canucks' record in Stanley Cup Finals is 0-3. (The Boston Bruins and the Philadelphia Flyers have each lost more Finals than the Canucks since 1970, but have also won more.)

The Canucks hang banners for their 3 Conference Championships: 1982, 1994 and 2011; their 2 President's Trophies: 2011 and 2012; and their 10 Division Championships: 1975, 1992, 1993, 2004, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013. (Note that they reached the Finals without finishing 1st in their Division in 1982 and 1994.)
The Canucks have retired 6 uniform numbers: 10, 1991-98 right wing Pavel Bure; 12, 1978-91 right wing Stan Smyl; 16, 1988-2008 right wing Trevor Linden; 19, 1996-2008 left wing Markus Naslund; 22, 2000-18 center Henrik Sedin; and 33, for his twin brother, left wing Daniel Sedin.
In addition, the Canucks have taken out of circulation, but not officially retired, the following: 11, 1970-734 left wing Wayne Maki, who died of cancer in 1974, and only Mark Messier has worn it since; 28, 2006-08 defenseman Luc Bourdon, killed in a motorcycle accident in 2008; 37, 2005-11 center Rick Rypien, who committed suicide in 2011; and 38, 2008-10 center Pavol Demitra, who was killed in the Lokomotiv Yaroslavl Air Disaster in Russia in 2011.

In addition, the Canucks have a Ring of Honour, which includes none of the preceding, but does include the following: 3, 1970-72 defenseman, 1987-97 general manager, and 1991-94 head coach Pat Quinn; 25, 1970-74 center Orland Kurtenbach, the team's 1st star; 27, 1974-90 defenseman Harold Snepsts; 23, 1978-86 center Thomas Gradin; 1, 1987-98  goaltender Kirk McLean; 2, 1997-2009 defenseman Matthias Öhlund; and 14, 2005-17 right wing Alex Burrows.

No Canucks players were named to The Hockey News' 100 Greatest Players in 1998. Bure and Quinn have been elected to the International Ice Hockey Federation (IIHF) Hall of Fame. Former general mangers Bud Poile and Brian Burke were awarded the Lester Patrick Trophy for contributions to hockey in America. Bure was the only player identified with the Canucks who was named to the NHL's 100th Anniversary 100 Greatest Players.

British Columbia teams that have won the Memorial Cup, the championship of Canadian junior hockey, are: The 1977 and 1978 New Westminster Bruins; the 1992, 1994 and 1995 Kamloops Blazers; the 2004 Kelowna Rockets; and the 2007 Vancouver Giants.

The 2007 Giants were owned by Pat Quinn, an original Canuck in 1970 (and an original Atlanta Flame in 1972), who coached Stanley Cup Finalists in Philadelphia in 1980 and Vancouver in 1994, and nearly did so again in Toronto in 1999. He coached Canada to the Gold Medal at the 2002 Olympics in Salt Lake City and to the 2004 World Cup. He died in 2014, and a statue of him now stands on Abbott Way, outside the Rogers Arena.
Canucks in the Hall of Fame include Bure, Quinn, Messier (a Canuck only 3 years), Igor Larionov (3), Cam Neely (3), Mats Sundin (1), former owner Frank Griffiths, original general manager Bud Poile (with them only 3 years), former general manager Jake Milford, and former coach Roger Neilson.

The Cancuks' biggest rivalry is with the Calgary Flames, the next-closest team, not with the Edmonton Oilers, the more successful team in Alberta. Actually, for reasons I've never been able to figure out, fans of all the other teams in Canada, and of all the teams on America's Pacific Coast, hate the Canucks.

Stuff. The Canucks Team Store is located at Gate 6, at the Arena's west entrance. There, you can find the usual items available in a hockey team's "pro shop."

With their spotty history, and less of a glamour team than their fellow Canadians, the Montreal Canadiens and the Toronto Maple Leafs, the Canucks haven't had many good books written about them. Bruce Dowbiggen wrote Ice Storm: The Rise and Fall of the Greatest Vancouver Canucks Team Ever, about the run to the 2010-11 Finals and the ultimate heartbreak. That was the team's 40th Anniversary season, Bev Wake and Paul Chapman also covered it in A Thrilling Ride: The Vancouver Canucks' Fortieth Anniversary Season.

There are 2 DVDs about the team. Vancouver Canucks: Love This Team, Love This Game is a team history video that calls them "BC's Biggest Family." Vancouver: Forever Faithful/The Canucks Movie is less recent, but perhaps still worth a look.

During the Game. A November 19, 2014 article on The Hockey News' website ranked the NHL teams' fan bases, and listed the Canucks' fans 4th, behind only Toronto, Chicago and Montreal, thus 1st among non-"Original Six" teams, and 1st among teams west of the Mississippi River. They said, "Still shelled out cash to support Canucks when team struggled last season." (Meaning 2013-14.)

Canucks fans don't much like the Edmonton Oilers, the Calgary Flames, the Ottawa Senators or the Toronto Maple Leafs. They also don't much like the 3 teams that have beaten them in the Stanley Cup Finals: The Islanders in 1982, the Rangers in 1994, or the Boston Bruins in 2011. But since Devils fans don't like those 3 teams either, you'll have something to talk about. At any rate, if you don't start any violence with Canucks fans, they won't start any with you.

Mark Donnelly has sung the National Anthems at Canucks games since 2001. He succeeded their original Anthem singer, Richard Loney, who died in 2015.
No, the part of Mark Donnelly is not being played
by Danny McBride, a.k.a. Kenny Powers.

The Canucks' mascot is Fin the Whale, which matches their whale-breaking-out-of-a-C logo, which matches the name of the company that has bought the Canucks and the Arena from the Griffiths family in 1995, Canucks Sports & Entertainment, formerly Orca Bay Sports & Entertainment. The company was named for the killer whales that live off the British Columbia coast. (Frank Griffiths and his son Arthur overspent to build the Arena, and Arthur had to sell after Frank's death. He redeemed himself somewhat by helping Vancouver get the 2010 Winter Olympics.)
Fin with our own N.J. Devil
at the 2015 NHL All-Star Game in Columbus.
Behind them is Bailey the Lion, from the Los Angeles Kings.

The goal song is "Gold On the Ceiling" by the Black Keys. But the biggest fan chant is the rather generic, "Go, Canucks, go!"

After the Game. Canadians generally don't believe in fighting with opposing fans, they have have a healthy attitude toward guns (they don't need them to feel safe), and they certainly have nothing against New Jersey. Don't go out of your way to antagonize anyone, and you'll be fine.

The arena is in downtown Vancouver, so there should be places to go after the game. I don't know of any place that is a known hangout for visiting or expatriate New Yorkers. The International Village Mall is 2 blocks north of the arena, at Abbott Street and Keefer Place. Whether anything will still be open after the game remains to be seen.

If your visit to Vancouver (for a Canucks game, a Whitecaps game, a Lions game, or anything else) is during the European soccer season (as we are once again in), the best one is probably Library Square Public House, 300 W. Georgia Street, 4 blocks northwest of the arena and the stadium.

Sidelights. Vancouver has been a big sports city since Canada's dawn, and these are some of the other places you should see, to get a feel for it:

* BC Place. Home of the CFL's British Columbia Lions and MLS' Vancouver Whitecaps, and the main stadium for the 2010 Winter Olympics, this facility opened in 1983, in the hopes that, in addition to the Lions and the original, North American Soccer League version of the Caps, it could bring in a Major League Baseball team. That's never happened.
Before the renovation

It remains the Province's premier concert venue. The Three Tenors -- Luciano Pavarotti, Placido Domingo and José Carreras -- sang there on December 31, 1996.

It originally had the same kind of air-supported white fabric dome that covered the Metrodome in Minneapolis and the Hoosier Dome in Indianapolis, but its renovation after the Olympics replaced it with a cable-supported roof that looks a lot better. 777 Pacific Blvd., across Georgia Street from Rogers Arena. Stadium-Chinatown station on SkyTrain.
After the renovation

UPDATE: It has been selected as a venue for the 2026 World Cup.

* Pacific National Exhibition. This was the home of Vancouver sports from the 1950s to the 1990s. The building here that is best known to Americans, because of their NHL viewing, is the Pacific Coliseum. Opening in 1968, it was the last home of the Western Hockey League's Canucks (1968-70), the 1st home of the NHL Canucks (1970-95), and the home of the World Hockey Association's Vancouver Blazers (1973-75).
Because of its interior appearance, and Vancouver's status as a place where filming movies gives studios tax breaks, it stood in for Madison Square Garden for the filming of Miracle, about the 1980 U.S. hockey team. The real-life Soviet team made an appearance there in 1972, as it hosted Game 4 of the Summit Series. It was also the venue for figure skating and short-track speed skating for the 2010 Winter Olympics. It is currently home to the Vancouver Giants, a minor-league hockey team.

The PNE grounds are also home to the Vancouver Forum, a 1931-built arena that was home to the minor-league Canucks from 1938 to 1968. It has remained a concert hall, although in 2007, fans at a Smashing Pumpkins concert took the band's name too literally, and a fan died in the mosh pit.
Back when the Commonwealth Games were still known as the Empire Games, Vancouver hosted them in 1954, and the 32,729-seat Empire Stadium was built at the PNE. The British Columbia Lions played there until 1982, moving into BC Place the next summer. The Empire also hosted the city's North American Soccer League teams, the Royals (1967-68) and the original version of the Whitecaps (1974-83).
In 1970, it became Canada's 1st stadium with artificial turf. It was demolished in 1993, and a temporary stadium was put on the site in 2011, to house the new Whitecaps while BC Place was being renovated with a new roof. This new site was quickly demolished.

The Hastings Racecourse, a thoroughbred horse venue, and Playland Amusement Park are also on the grounds. 100 N. Renfrew Street at Miller Drive, on the grounds of the Pacific National Exhibition. Number 4 bus.

The Canadian Premier League, an attempt at a top-flight soccer league for the country, was founded in mid-2017, began play in 2019. Pacific FC won the 2021 title. They play at Starlight Stadium in Langford, which seats 8,000. 1089 Langford Parkway, 9 miles west of downtown Victoria (Bus 50), and 76 miles southwest of downtown Vancouver.
* Denman Arena. Built by the Patrick brothers in 1911, this 10,500-seat arena was the largest in Canada at the time. The Pacific Coast Hockey Association's Vancouver Millionaires played here until 1926, winning the 1915 Stanley Cup, 100 years ago. When the PCHA folded, the Vancouver Lions of the Northwest Hockey League took over in 1928, and played here until 1936. It was also home to a women's hockey team, the Vancouver Amazons.
In 1936, mere hours after hosting a fight by former Heavyweight Champion Max Baer, the arena, brick-faced and supposedly fireproof, fell victim to a nearby fire. Sounds suspicious. Devonian Harbour Park is now on the site. 561 Denman Street at Georgia Street. Bus 240 from downtown.

* Scotiabank Field at Nat Bailey Stadium. Home to Vancouver baseball since 1951, and originally known as Capilano Stadium, in 1978 it was renamed for Bailey, a local restaurateur and civic booster. Scotiabank bought naming rights in 2010. It seats only 6,013, so it's small even by Triple-A standards. But it has the old-time look, complete with support poles holding up an overhanging roof.
The stadium was built by Emil Sick, who also built the ballpark of the Pacific Coast League's Seattle Rainiers, which would later be home to the ill-fated Seattle Pilots of the American League. The Vancouver Mounties would play PCL ball there from 1956 to 1969, and would finish as they began, as a Seattle farm club.
The city would be without professional baseball until 1978, when the Vancouver Canadians joined the PCL. They won Pennants in 1985, 1989 and 1999. But in 2000, they were moved to Sacramento, and were replaced by a new Canadians team, in the Northwest League, a short-season Class A league like the New York-Penn League that includes the Staten Island Yankees and the Brooklyn Cyclones.

By 2011, they were the only affiliated minor-league baseball team in Canada (all the others are now in independent leagues), and became, perhaps appropriately, a farm club of the country's only remaining major league team, the Toronto Blue Jays. They won Pennants in 2011, 2012 and 2013. In 2015, they had a pitcher named Tyler Burden -- not Tyler Durden. 4601 Ontario Street at 30th Avenue, in Queen Elizabeth Park. Number 3 bus.

The closest MLB team to Vancouver is the Seattle Mariners, 144 miles away. In spite of this, national pride is still the determining factor: According to Vancouver Sun poll this past April 2 -- before the Jays made the Playoffs for the 1st time in 22 years -- the Jays are easily the area's favorite baseball team, with a 56 percent share of the market, to the Mariners' 13.

If Vancouver were to pursue teams in the sports they do not currently have at the major league level, they would rank 28th in population in MLB, ahead of only Kansas City, Cincinnati and Milwaukee; and 24th in the NBA.

* University of British Columbia. Founded as the Western Canada extension of Montreal's McGill University, UBC's main campus is at the western edge of Vancouver Island, about 6 1/2 miles west of downtown. Bus 4. Their football team, the Thunderbirds, have won the Vanier Cup in 1982, 1986, 1997 and 2015. Their hockey team, however, has won no major trophies.

* Museum of Vancouver and Vancouver Maritime Museum. Montreal has Pointe-à-Callière, Toronto has Fort York, and Vancouver has the MOV and the VMM. The MOV is the largest civic museum in Canada, and shares facilities with the H.R. MacMillan Space Centre. And while it was founded as a Gold Rush town and a railroad terminus, the VMM shows that there's no escaping that Vancouver is a port city. 1100 Chestnut Street at McNicoll Avenue, in Vanier Park. Number 2 bus.

* Science World at TELUS World of Science. This is the glass sphere seen in so many photos of Vancouver. 1455 Quebec Street at Terminal Avenue. Main Street-Science World station on SkyTrain.

There's also the Forbidden Vancouver Tour, which takes visitors to naughty sites in Gastown, and places that sent booze to America during Prohibition (and took in Americans looking for a drink, as the border is 31 miles from downtown Vancouver, further than Windsor but closer than Montreal or Toronto). Cathedral Square, Dunsmuir and Richards Streets. Granville station on SkyTrain.

The only one of Canada's now 23 Prime Ministers (including the newly-elected Justin Trudeau) to have come from British Columbia is Vancouver native Kim Campbell, the 1st female head of government in North American history -- unless you want to go back to, and count, Queen Anne in the early 18th Century, before either the U.S. or Canada gained independence. Campbell served for just 4 months in 1993, after the resignation of Brian Mulroney and before the ensuing election, for which he let her take the fall. She is still alive, so there is no historic site in her honor.

* Victoria. The capital of the Province of British Columbia, and the home of the 1925 Victoria Cougars, the last team from outside the NHL to win the Stanley Cup, and the last B.C. team to win it, is 72 miles southwest of Vancouver, 106 miles northwest of Seattle, and 25 miles from the closest border crossing, the ferry from Port Angeles, Washington. From both Vancouver and Seattle, it can be reached without a car, but, in each case, you'd need to take a bus and a ferry, since, like Vancouver, it's on an island.
The British Columbia Parliament Building in Vancouver

It's not a very big city, home to around 80,000 people, which is why it's never had an NHL team. But, like Edmonton over Calgary, it is Victoria, not Vancouver, that is the Provincial capital. It is the hometown of basketball star Steve Nash (who grew up there after immigrating with his family from South Africa) and singer Nelly Furtado (who, in her song "Promiscuous," asked collaborator Timbaland, "Is your game MVP like Steve Nash?").

If you're just that much of a hockey history fan, and want to see where this legendary team played -- Game 2 of the 1925 Finals against the Montreal Canadiens was played at Denman in Vancouver, but Games 1, 3 and 4 were played in Victoria -- the Patrick Arena, also built by the Patrick brothers in 1911 (and, suspiciously, also destroyed by fire, in 1929), was at what's now 2100 Cadboro Bay Road, at the corner of Epworth Street, about 2 miles east of downtown. Bus 11.
A replacement, the Victoria Memorial Arena, a.k.a. The Barn on Blanshard, was built in 1949, hosted 2 new teams called the Victoria Cougars, and a Victoria Maple Leafs in between and (I swear, I'm not making this up) the Victoria Salsa afterward.

This time, it was legally demolished, because it was cheaper to build a new arena on the site from scratch than to maintain the old one. The new one is named the Save-On-Foods Memorial Centre, seats 7,000, and hosts the Victoria Salmon Kings of the ECHL (whose official name is now just those letters, "ECHL," because it would be stupid to call yourself the East Coast Hockey League and have a team on the West Coast of Canada). 1925 Blanshard Street, corner of Caledonia Street downtown.
The Barn on Blanshard, and its replacement on the same site

Lester and Frank Patrick are buried in Victoria, at Royal Oak Burial Park, at 4673 Falaise Drive, 6 miles north of downtown. Bus 72.

The tallest building in Vancouver, and in the Province of British Columbia, is an apartment tower called Living Shangri-La, 659 feet tall. 1128 West Georgia Street at Thurlow Street. Burrard station on SkyTrain.

Nearby, at 355 Burrard Street, is the Marine Building, which stood in for the Daily Planet Building on Smallville, the 2000s re-imagining of the Superman story. Due to Canada's tax breaks for film studios, Vancouver has become the country's Hollywood. Other TV shows filmed there include Airwolf, MacGyver, 21 Jump Street, The Commish, The X-Files, the Stargate series, Dark Angel, Seven Days, Highlander, The L Word, The 4400, Eureka, Fringe, Psych, Arrow and Once Upon a Time.

Movies filmed in Vancouver include First Blood (the first Rambo film), The Accused, Legends of the Fall, Intersection, Jumanji, the Air Bud films, the Blade films, the Scary Movie films, the Final Destination films, the previous round of Fantastic Four films, the Night at the Museum films, the Percy Jackson films, Timecop, Titanic, Van Wilder, Juno, 2012, Hot Tub Time Machine, Watchmen, the execrable Twilight films, and the Superman reboots Man of Steel and Batman v. Superman: Dawn of Justice. (Those did not use the Marine Building to stand in for the Daily Planet.)

*

Vancouver is Western Canada's leading city, and a West Coast gem fully able to stand alongside Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, Los Angeles and San Diego. And it has a strong sports heritage, including the Vancouver Canucks. The city still hasn't won a Stanley Cup in (literally) a century, but then, as a traveling Devils fan, that works in your favour (as it would be "spelt") there. Good luck. 

Saturday, March 5, 2022

How to Be a New York Basketball Fan In Memphis -- 2022 Edition

This coming Friday, March 11, the New York Knicks will visit Memphis to play the Grizzlies. The Brooklyn Nets will do the same on March 23. This will complete the 2021-22 NBA season for my trip guides, as the Grizzlies were the 30th and last team to have done.

Memphis is a city with a lot of history, and a lot of problems. Poverty, crime and bigotry cast their shadows over its athletic, musical and religious legacies. I've often said that America only ever needed 2 Kings: Elvis Presley and Martin Luther King Jr., and they both died in Memphis before reaching the age of 43.

Before You Go. Memphis is in the South. Not the Deep South, but the Mid-South. In fact, their old arena was named the Mid-South Coliseum. However, Tennessee rejoined the Union a long time ago, and you won't need to bring a passport or change your money.

If you were going to a baseball game, or an early-season football game, the heat might be an issue. But this will be in mid-March, so even outside the arena, heat won't be a factor. Cold might be: For Sunday, the website of Memphis' main newspaper, The Commercial Appeal, is predicting the temperatures to be in the low 60s in daylight, but will drop to the high 30s at night.

Memphis, like most (but not all) of Tennessee, is in the Central Time Zone, an hour behind us. Adjust your timepieces accordingly.

Tickets. The Grizzlies averaged 15,478 fans per home game in 2019-20, the last pre-COVID season, 3rd-lowest in the NBA, ahead of only the Nets, the Minnesota Timberwolves, and the Atlanta Hawks. It was 87 percent of capacity, low considering that they're the only major league sports team in town. Many tickets could well be available.

Seats in the lower level, the 100 sections, go for $246 between the baskets and $115 behind them. Seats in the upper level, the 200 sections, are among the cheapest in the NBA, going for $31 and $26.

Getting There. It's 1,100 miles from Midtown Manhattan to Memphis. So your first instinct would be to fly. A a round-trip nonstop flight could cost over $700 on United Airlines. Memphis International Airport is 10 miles south of downtown, and the Number 20 bus can get you to downtown in under 40 minutes.

Greyhound can get you from New York to Memphis in a little under 30 hours, for $569 round-trip, $291 with advanced purchase, although you'd have to change buses in Richmond. The Greyhound station is at 203 Union Avenue.

Amtrak can't be used this week: The Lake Shore Limited train from New York to Chicago has been canceled for the time being. Even under normal conditions, Amtrak is a bit more complicated: There's no direct route from New York. You'd have to take the Lake Shore Limited out of Penn Station at 3:40 PM on Friday afternoon, arrive in Chicago at 9:45 AM on Saturday, stay over there until 8:05 PM, and take the City of New Orleans (the current version replaces the Illinois Central Railroad's Panama Limited "Night Train," instead of the old version made famous by the Steve Goodman/Arlo Guthrie song), arriving in Memphis at 6:27 AM on Sunday, the morning of the game. And, because of the holiday, it would be $556. At any rate (if you'll pardon the pun), the address for Memphis Central Station is 545 S. Main Street.

If you do drive, it's far enough that you should get someone to go with you, to trade off, especially if one can sleep while the other drives. Get into New Jersey, take Interstate 78 West into Pennsylvania. At Harrisburg, get on Interstate 81 South, and take that down through Maryland, West Virginia and Virginia, into Tennessee, where it flows into Interstate 40 West. Take that all the way across Tennessee. Exit 1 is for downtown.

If all goes well, you should spend a little over an hour in New Jersey, 2 hours and 45 minutes in Pennsylvania, 15 minutes in Maryland, half an hour in West Virginia, 6 and a half hours in Virginia, and 8 hours and 15 minutes in Tennessee, for a total of 19 hours and 15 minutes. Given rest stops in Pennsylvania, one at each end of Virginia, and 3 in Tennessee, and we're talking about a trip of at least 26 hours -- each way.

Once In the City. Founded in 1819, and named for the ancient capital city of Egypt, Memphis is in the southwestern corner of Tennessee, across the Mississippi River from Arkansas. Downtown is 13 miles from the Mississippi State Line. So, like New York, it has a "Tri-State Area." These States led to one of the names of its ABA team, the Tams: TAM, Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi.

Memphis is the largest city in Tennessee, with over 650,000 people, and a metropolitan area of over 1.4 million. That sounds like a lot, but it's actually the 2nd-smallest market in the NBA, ahead of only New Orleans, and it wouldn't be if New Orleans hadn't lost so many people after Hurricane Katrina. It would be easily the smallest in MLB, the smallest in the NFL except for New Orleans, and would rank ahead of only 2 NHL cities, Edmonton and Winnipeg.

Memphis always had a large black population, with downtown's Beale Street being known as the home of the blues -- culturally, if not exactly geographically, the midpoint between New Orleans (395 miles to the south) and Chicago (533 miles to the northeast). Two blocks north of Beale is Union Street, home to country music studio turned rock and roll historymaker Sun Records.

As late as the 1970 Census, 2 years after Martin Luther King was assassinated there, it was 60 percent white and 39 percent black. But the 2020 Census shows just how extensive "white flight" was: 63 percent black, 25 percent white, 10 percent Hispanic and 2 percent Asian. The east side is mostly white, the north and south sides (including the part where Graceland is located) mostly black. Across the river, West Memphis, Arkansas gets less black and more white as you move west. There were race riots in Memphis just after the Civil War in 1866, and in 1968 after Dr. King was killed there.

The sales tax in Tennessee is 7 percent, and within Shelby County, including Memphis, 9.25 percent, even higher than New York's. ZIP Codes for Memphis start with the digits 380 to 383. The Area Code is 901. The Memphis Light, Gas and Water Division (MLGW) handles the utilities for all of Shelby County.

Address numbers on east-west streets increase away from the River, and Madison Avenue separates north from south. Interstate 269 forms a partial beltway. The Memphis Area Transit Authority (MATA) runs buses and light-rail "trolleys," with a base fare of $1.75, plus 80 cents for each additional zone.

Going In. Federal Express was founded in Memphis, and aside from music companies is the corporation most associated with the city, which has certainly been helped by having bought the naming rights to the main sports arena. The official address of the FedEx Forum is 191 Beale Street, at S. 4th Street.

If you're driving, parking is to the southwest of the arena, at B.B. King Blvd. and Dr. Martin Luther King Avenue, and can be had for as little as $10.  If you're walking in from a downtown hotel, you'll most likely be going in from the north or the west.
The arena, a.k.a. The Grindhouse, opened in 2004, and has been home to the Grizzlies and the University of Memphis (formerly Memphis State University) Tigers basketball team ever since. The Nashville Predators hosted a preseason game there in 2006, and it hosts concerts, boxing and wrestling. The court is laid out east-to-west.
With the court set up for a Memphis Tigers game

Food. Memphis has a reputation as a city of fine Southern food, particularly barbecue. However, the Grizzlies' focus seems to be on Club Level restaurants, for the well-heeled customer: The Horseshoe Lounge, the Bud Light Bar, the Draft Room and the Blue Note Lounge.

On the Plaza Level (lower): Section 101 has Snax, including hot dogs, burgers, chicken tenders, nachos, pretzels and waffle fries; 103 has Dippin Dots; 104 has Chopsticks, Chinese food; 106 has Delta Grill, same as Snax, and Charles Vergos' Rendezvous, pork products; 107 has IPop Gourmet Popcorn; 109 has Pizza (an original name); 110 has Fowl Line, chicken products; 113 has World's Fair, same as Snax; and 118 has Memphis Burrito Co., Mexican food.

On Terrace Level (upper): 208 has Bandstands, same as Snax, and Pizza; 209 has Dippin Dots; 216 has IPop Gourmet Popcorn and Charles Vergos' Rendezvous; 224 has Rock-a-Belly's, same as Snax; and 232 has Wing Guru.

Apparently, at IPop, "Memphis Mix" is Buffalo Ranch and Caramel. So Memphis had to steal another city's idea? And "Grizzlies Mix" is blueberry, pineapple and white cheddar. Damn, that's disgusting. The Grizzlies deserve to never reach an NBA Finals for that alone.

Team History Displays. The Vancouver Grizzlies began as an NBA expansion team in 1995 -- only the Charlotte Bobcats/new Hornets are a newer franchise -- and moved to Memphis in 2001, not making the Playoffs until 2004.

So there isn't much history there. They've never won a title even at the Division level, and have no banners for such titles, don't hang a banner for their 1 visit to the Western Conference Finals, where they got swept by San Antonio in 2013.

So far, only 2 people associated with the team have been elected to the Basketball Hall of Fame: Hubie Brown, former Knicks head coach, who held the same post with the Grizzlies from 2002 to 2005; and Allen Iverson, who briefly played for them in 2009.

The Grizzlies have retired Number 50 for forward Zach Randolph, 2009-17. They also "retired a microphone" for Don Poier, who broadcast for the team from their 1995 inception through their 2001 move, until his death in 2005. They have announced that, once they've retired as active players, they will retire 9 for guard Tony Allen, 2010-17; 11 for guard Mike Conley Jr., 2007-19; and 33 for center Marc Gasol, 2008-19.

The only championship banners in the arena belong to the University of Memphis basketball team, winning the old Metro Conference in 1982, '84, '85 and '87; winning Conference USA in 2006, '07, '08, '09, '11, '12 and '13; and reaching the NCAA Final Four in 1973, '85 and 2008. However, their 1985 Final Four berth and their 2008 C-USA title and Final Four berth were vacated by NCAA sanctions.

The Memphis Tigers have 9 retired numbers: From the 1950s, 13, Forest Arnold, and 22, Win Wilfong; from the 1970s, 21, Larry Finch, 33, Ronnie Robinson, 35, Larry Kenon, and 44, John Gunn; from the 1980s, 24, Keith Lee, and 34, Elliott Perry; and from the 1990s, 25, Anfernee "Penny" Hardaway.
Not mentioned in the rafters is the American Basketball Association team known as the Memphis Pros in 1970-71 and 1971-72, the Memphis Tams (for the 3 States in the Memphis metro area: Tennessee, Arkansas and Mississippi) in 1972-73 and 1973-74, and the Memphis Sounds in 1974-75. They made the Playoffs only in their first and last seasons, and their stars included future New York Nets stars Wendell Ladner and Larry Kenon, future broadcaster Steve "Snapper" Jones, and Darel Carrier, who was named to the ABA All-Time Team, but mainly for what he'd done with the Louisville-based Kentucky Colonels.

The Grizzlies have not yet formed any real rivalries. They've had notable Playoff matchups with the Spurs, the Oklahoma City Thunder and, oddly, another franchise known for being a longtime loser, the Los Angeles Clippers. In fact, they may be the only team that considers the Clippers a rival but not the Lakers. Regional rivals would seem to be their fellow Southwest Division teams: The Spurs, the Dallas Mavericks, the Houston Rockets and the New Orleans Pelicans; and other Southern teams like the Thunder, the Charlotte Hornets and the Atlanta Hawks.

Stuff. The Grizzlies Den is located in the arena's Grand Lobby. Whether they sell hats with bear ears on them, I don't know. Smaller souvenir stands are located all around the arena.

As one of the NBA's newer teams, there are no NBA Finals DVD packages for the Grizzlies, and books about them are few and far between. In 2017, Jim Whiting published the Grizzlies' edition for the NBA: A History of Hoops series.

During the Game. Memphis people don't like Nashville people. That's about as far as rivalries go there. So as long as you don't make any wiseguy remarks about this being a North vs. South game, you shouldn't face anything beyond the usual nonviolent "My team rocks, your team sucks" talk.

A November 13, 2014 article on DailyRotoHelp ranked the NBA teams' fan bases, and listed the Grizzlies' fans as 22nd. The team has only been around for 21 years, and has reached the Conference Finals exactly once. Their legitimate number of Hall of Fame players is exactly zero. So there's been little about which for them to get excited about, or for which to generate any atmosphere. Until now: They have point guard Temetrius Jamel "Ja" Morant, only 22 years old, and already one of the best players in the game.

This Friday's game against the Knicks is Grizzlies Ford Scholars Night, with a promotion by "your Mid-South Ford Dealers." The March 23 game against the Nets is Adoptable Pet Night: The 1st 5,000 fans will receive a pet leash.

The Grizzlies' mascot is Grizz the Bear, and he won NBA Mascot of the Year in 2011. They don't have a regular National Anthem singer, instead holding auditions. As you might guess in a great music city like Memphis, the Grizzlies have been renowned for their in-game music. DJ Paul, with the town's "Bluff City" nickname in mind, recorded "We Don't Bluff (Memphis Grizzlies Theme)," while another rapper, calling himself Al Kapone, recorded "Whoop That Trick (Grizz Grindhouse Version)."
After the Game. If there was an NBA team in Nashville, Memphis fans wouldn't like them. But they're fine with pretty much everybody else, including their putative geographic rivals in Atlanta, New Orleans and Dallas. Knicks and Nets fans shouldn't get any hassling, as long as they didn't bring it on.

Beale Street, the "capital" of the blues, is not only home to the FedEx Forum but several places to go after the game, including The Hard Rock Cafe at 126, the Blues City Cafe at 138, B.B. King's at 143 (you may be familiar with the New York version on 42nd Street), Rum Boogie Cafe at 182, Silky O'Sullivan's at 183, Coyote Ugly at 326. But I can find no reference to any bars where fans of New York sports teams are known to gather.

If your game in Memphis is during the European soccer season (which this one is), the likeliest place to watch your favorite club is The Brass Door, 152 Madison Avenue, downtown.

Sidelights. Memphis has its problems, including crime and racial resentments. But, in spite of having only an NBA team, never an MLB team, and never an NFL team except for 1 season, there's still plenty to see there, from the sacred to the gloriously profane.

* Memphis Pyramid. The first arena to lure a major league team to Memphis played on the theme of the origin of the city's name, designed in the shape of an Egyptian-style pyramid. The 20,142-seat arena opened in 1991, and its troubles began immediately: The arena flooded because of poorly-designed drainage.

The Memphis Tigers moved right in for the 1991-92 season, and the arena attracted the moving Vancouver Grizzlies in 2001. It also hosted the 2002 fight in which Lennox Lewis ended the legend of Mike Tyson.

But, even though it was designed with basketball in mind, they apparently hadn't lived up to the NBA's standards, and the Grizzlies only intended to use it as a stopgap arena. At the age of just 13, both the Grizzlies and the Tigers moved to the new FedEx Forum, and the Pyramid's future was in doubt.

In 2015, Bass Pro Shops moved into a renovated Pyramid, and opened a megastore there. 1 Bass Pro Drive, at Front Street & Willis Avenue, a mile and a half north of downtown (so the location also wasn't very good). Number 20 bus from downtown.
* Memphis' sports complex. For many years, this location included the Mid-South Fairgrounds, a minor-league ballpark, a football stadium and a sports arena, with Christian Brothers University just to the north. The Fairgrounds and the ballpark are gone, and the arena is closed, but the stadium is still in operation.

Built in 1963 and seating 10,085 people, the Mid-South Coliseum was best known as the home of the city's American Basketball Association franchise, known as the Memphis Pros in their 1st season in town, 1971-72; the Memphis Tams after being bought by Oakland A's owner Charlie Finley, 1972-74; and the Memphis Sounds in their last season, 1974-75, after Finley sold them. They moved to Baltimore to become the Claws, but, still feeling the effects of Finley's mismanagement, folded before ever playing a game in Charm City. The closest they got to a title was 1975 East Division Finals.
Memphis never again got close to attracting an NBA team until after the Pyramid was built, which rendered the Coliseum pretty much obsolete, with half as many seats and no modern amenities.

The Beatles played 2 shows there on August 19, 1966, but the evening show was marred by a firecracker being thrown onstage, leading the bandmembers, concerned over threats due to John Lennon's controversial "We're more popular than Jesus" comment, to think it was a gunshot. (This was 2 years before Martin Luther King was killed in the city, but 3 years after John F. Kennedy was killed in Dallas, and the Beatles really didn't want to go to Dallas.)

Elvis sang at the Coliseum, on March 16 and 20, 1974 and March 20, 1976. In 1997, 20 years after his death, his old band and backup singers (nearly all of them still alive at that point) reunited for the first time at the Coliseum, and presented "Elvis In Concert," with them playing and singing in front of a huge screen showing him from performances such as the 1973 Hawaii concert and from the documentaries Elvis: That's the Way It Is (1970) and Elvis On Tour (1972). A 25th Anniversary show was done at the Pyramid in 2002, and, despite the deaths of some bandmembers, these shows continue to be put together.

The Mid-South Coliseum continued to hold concerts, and remained the South's premier pro wrestling venue (as it had been since the mid-1960s), until, operating at a loss of $1 million a year, it was closed in 2006, but it still stands.

Memphis has never had an NHL or a WHA team. The closest current NHL team is the Nashville Predators, 212 miles away, but the Memphis-Nashville rivalry may complicate rooting interests. The next-closest team is the St. Louis Blues, 283 miles away.

The Liberty Bowl game was played in Philadelphia from 1959 to 1963, and indoors at what's now Boardwalk Hall in Atlantic City in 1964, before moving to the brand-new Memphis Memorial Stadium in 1965. The stadium was renamed Liberty Bowl Memorial Stadium in 1976.
Currently seating 59,308 people, it has a slope down to small end-zone seating sections, and a weird, curvy press box, making it similar to what the old Tampa Stadium "Big Sombrero" had. It's hosted the University of Memphis football team since it opened.

It's also briefly been home to several pro football teams: The Memphis Southmen of the World Football League in 1974 and '75, the Memphis Showboats of the USFL in 1984 and '85, the Memphis Mad Dogs of the CFL's ill-advised American experiment in 1995, and the Memphis Maniax of the XFL in 2001. It also hosted the Memphis Rogues of the old North American Soccer League in 1978, '79 and '80.

Most notably, when the Houston Oilers moved in 1996, they intended to play the 1997 and 1998 seasons at the Liberty Bowl, as the Tennessee Oilers, before moving to their new stadium in Nashville, 215 miles to the east, in 1999 as the Tennessee Titans.

But, despite having beaten Nashville to hosting regular-season NFL games, the people of Memphis were not willing to see a team they saw as both a lame duck and belonging to the despised Nashville, which inspired jealousy both as a State capital and as a competitor for the title of Music City, U.S.A. (a name Nashville actually calls itself). Despite going a respectable 8-8 (a fine 6-2 at home), they ended up getting the NFL's smallest crowds -- aside from the 1987 "Scab Bowls" -- since the 1950s. They averaged only 28,028 fans per home game, bottoming out at 17,071 for an October 12 win over Cincinnati. In contrast, they averaged 57,376 on the road. In other words, their road average would nearly have filled the Liberty Bowl, but their home average wouldn't have filled the Pyramid.

So team owner Bud Adams got the message, and figured, if he was going to get less than 40,000 fans to come out anyway, he might as well move to Nashville a year early, and put the team in Vanderbilt University's 41,000-seat stadium for a year until what's now named Nissan Stadium opened. 

Just yesterday, Moneywise published a list of the Worst College Football Stadiums, the bottom 19 percent of college football, 25 out of 129. The Liberty Bowl came in 7th: "The home of the Memphis Tigers looks futuristic -- for the 1960s. Liberty Bowl Memorial was built in 1965 and has not been aging well."

American Legion Field opened in 1963, seating 8,800 people, and the new Memphis Blues minor-league baseball team moved in for the 1968 season, and the name was changed to Blues Stadium. The Blues moved out, and the park was dark for 1977, but in 1978 a new version of the Memphis Chicks moved in, and were replaced by the Memphis Redbirds in 1998.

Both the Blues and the Chicks were Class AA teams, while the Redbirds have been a Class AAA team since they arrived. The Blues won Texas League Pennants in 1969 and 1973, just like their parent club at the time did in the National League, the Mets. Those were the only Pennants won at this ballpark.

After the 1977 season, the name of the ballpark was changed to Tim McCarver Stadium, after the native son catcher, then still active. Wanting a more modern facility, the Redbirds opened a new park in 2000, and McCarver Stadium was demolished in 2005. So not only did McCarver have the oddity of having a sports facility named after him while he was not only still alive, but still playing, but, like actress Helen Hayes and the 1st Broadway theater named for her, he actually outlived (and is still outliving at this writing) the ballpark named for him! A park with youth fields is now on the site.
Real grass in the outfield, artificial turf in the infield.

The complex is 5 miles southeast of downtown. The address for the Coliseum is 996 Early Maxwell Blvd., and that of the Bowl is 335 S. Hollywood Street. McCarver Stadium was at Early Maxwell Blvd. and Raymond Skinner Drive. Number 2 or 5 bus.

* AutoZone Park. Seating 14,384 people, this is one of the largest ballparks in the minor leagues. The Memphis Redbirds, a St. Louis Cardinals farm team, have played here since 2000. It also hosted the 1st 2 MLB Civil Rights Games, in 2007 and '08.
As part of the powerful Cardinal system, the Redbirds have won Pennants here in 2000 and 2009, making 12 Pennants for Memphis minor-league teams.

Memphis 901 FC, named for the city's Area Code, also play there, having begun play in 2019, in the USL Championship, the 2nd tier of American soccer. 200 Union Street at S. B.B. King Blvd. (formerly 3rd Street), downtown.

The new Nashville SC are the closest MLS team to Memphis, 211 miles away. Their start in 2020, and all the COVID nonsense since, means it remains to be seen whether the antagonism between the 2 cities might prevent West Tennesseans from embracing them.

* Site of Russwood Park. Memphis' 1st professional ballpark was built in 1896, and, still made mostly of wood, burned down on April 17, 1960, mere hours after a preseason exhibition game between the Chicago White Sox and Cleveland Indians.
The Memphis Chickasaws (or Chicks for short) won Pennants in the Class AA Southern Association in 1903, 1904, 1921, 1924, 1930, 1933, 1953 and 1955. Elvis sang there on the 4th of July 1956, and it hosted professional wrestling crowds of up to 18,000.
The bleachers after the fire

A post office is now on the site, adjacent to the University of Tennessee Health Science Center. 910 Madison Avenue at Pauline Street, about a mile and a half east of downtown. Number 102 bus.

* Martin Park. The Negro Leagues' Memphis Red Sox had a benefactor, black businessman J.B. Martin, so they were one of the few black teams that had their own ballpark. They played at Martin Park from 1923 to 1943, surviving the Great Depression, but not the manpower shortage of World War II.

A hardware store is on the site now. 494 East E.H. Crump Blvd., about 2 miles south of downtown. Bus 4.

According to an April 2014 article in The New York Times, the Yankees are actually the most popular MLB team in Memphis and the immediate environs, while the closest team, the Cardinals (283 miles to the north) are right behind; but the further you get from central Memphis, the more the Cardinals are preferred.

According to an article in the September 2014 edition of The Atlantic, alone among Tennessee's Counties, Shelby County's favorite NFL team is not the closest team, the Nashville-based Tennessee Titans, 212 miles away, reflecting the anti-State capital bias, but the Dallas Cowboys. This is also true for the northwestern corner of Mississippi, close to Memphis, as the rest of the State sides with the New Orleans Saints. Arkansas, however, goes for the Cowboys almost in their entirety, except for the southernmost part, bordering Louisiana, where the Saints are preferred.

Don't count on Memphis ever getting an MLB team, or another NFL team in spite of the built-in rivalry with the Titans.

* Museums. The FedEx Forum includes the Memphis Rock and Soul Museum. Beale Street, itself, is practically a living museum of music, especially the blues. The Sun Records studio, where Elvis, Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Jerry Lee Lewis and Carl Perkins all became stars, has been turned into a museum. 706 Union Street at Marshall Avenue, at the eastern edge of downtown. Also in a former studio, and before that a movie theater, the Stax Museum of American Soul Music is at 910 East Mclemore Avenue, 2 miles southeast of downtown. Number 4 bus.

But Memphis', and perhaps the entire South's, most important museum is The National Civil Rights Museum. It was established at the former Lorraine Motel, where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was shot and killed on April 4, 1968, while visiting Memphis to help striking black sanitation workers.

Aside from an explanatory plaque, and a white wreath on the balcony at the spot where Dr. King fell, the exterior of the building, including its 1960s-style sign, has been preserved exactly as it was on that horrible day. A pair of contemporary cars are parked out front, to match the ones shown in the famous photo of King's entourage pointing across the street, including Jesse Jackson and Andrew Young. 450 Mulberry Street, a couple of blocks from Memphis Central Station. Number 100 bus.

The Mason Temple, where Dr. King gave his last speech -- "I may not get there with you, but I want you to know, tonight, that we, as a people, will get to the Promised Land!" -- is at 930 Mason Street, a mile and a half south of downtown. Number 57 bus.
The 3 Presidents with connections to Tennessee are all well to the east of Memphis: Andrew Jackson and James Polk in Nashville, and Andrew Johnson in Greenville.

* Elvis sites. Memphis', and indeed Tennessee's, most famous structure isn't the FedEx Forum, or the Lorraine Motel, or Nashville's Ryman Auditorium/original Grand Ole Opry House, or the State House, or Andrew Jackson's Hermitage, or Neyland Stadium or the Thompson-Boling Center on the University of Tennessee campus in Knoxville. It's Elvis Presley's home, open to tours since his ex-wife and executor, Priscilla Presley, ordered it to fund the virtually bankrupt Elvis Presley Enterprises in 1982. (She had to wait until Elvis' father Vernon died, as he was still living there.)
Standing 8 miles south of downtown, a stone's throw from the airport and almost within walking distance of the Mississippi State Line, the name of the property was originally Graceland Farms. The site includes a house built in 1939, by Dr. Thomas Moore, whose wife Ruth was the niece of the farm's namesake, Grace Toof, who inherited it in 1894 from her father, Stephen C. Toof, who ran a commercial printing firm.

The Presley family's 1st home after Elvis got famous is at 1034 Audubon Avenue, but his fans soon visited in large enough numbers that it disturbed the neighbors. Elvis chose Graceland as his new home because it had enough land, nearly 14 acres, to isolate it from the street and its other houses, so his fans wouldn't bother the neighbors. He bought it in March 1957 for $102,500 (about $932,000 in today's money), and, over the next 20 years, sank over $500,000 into building it to his tastes. (Save your jokes.)

3764 Elvis Presley Blvd., which U.S. Route 51 south of downtown had already been named while he was still alive. Take any bus from downtown east to Madison Avenue, then the Number 42 bus. The trip takes a little under an hour. The house at 1034 Audubon is 9 miles southeast of downtown, but it's still a private residence, so don't bother anyone. Number 57 bus.
Elvis Aaron Presley died at Graceland on August 16, 1977 -- and anyone who says he's still alive is either referring to the legacy rather than the man, or is engaging in wishful thinking. (He'd be 84 years old this coming January, so he'd probably be dead by now anyway.) He was born on January 8, 1935, in Tupelo, Mississippi, a little over 100 miles to the southeast of Memphis. The city of Tupelo maintains the small house where he was born as a museum. 306 Elvis Presley Drive.

The Presley family first moved to Memphis in 1948. They lived in a rental house at 572 Poplar Avenue, now a vacant lot, just north of downtown. A year later, they moved to the Lauderdale Courts, essentially garden apartments, at 185 Winchester Avenue, Apartment 328. They stayed there until he got his big break in the Summer of 1954. Just north of downtown, near the bridge. Bus 56.

For a few months in late 1954 and early 1955, they rented a house at 2414 Lamar Avenue, on the southeast side of town. Again, Bus 56, but in the opposite direction. They spent early 1956 at another rental, a few blocks away (also via Bus 56) at 1414 Getwell Road. But he was on tour so much, he hardly saw this residence. By May 1956, it was Audubon Avenue; in March 1957, it was Graceland.

Aside from the preceding, Elvis sang in many places in and around Memphis. His first concerts, on July 17, 24 and 31, 1954, were at the Bon Air Club, at 4862 Summer Avenue. (Demolished. Bus 19) His first paid concert is said to have been at the Overton Park Shell (now the Levitt Shell) on July 30, 1954. He played it again on August 10, 1954 and August 5, 1955. 1928 Poplar Avenue. (Bus 50.)

He sang at the Eagle's Nest several times in 1954: August 7 and 27; September 4, 10, 11, 18, 24 and 25; October 1, 6, 9, 13, 15, 29 and 30; November 17 and December 10. Lamar Avenue (U.S. Route 78) and Winchester Road. (Demolished. Now a commercial area near the airport, hence the name. Bus 56 to 69)

He played the Goodwyn Institute on August 14, 1954. (127 Madison Avenue, downtown.) He played Bellevue Park on August 18, 1954. (Now Jesse Turner Park. 1310 S. Bellevue Blvd., or U.S. Route 51 -- which becomes Elvis Presley Blvd. Bus 56 to 42.) He played the VFW Club at Veterans of Foreign Wars Post 684 on August 20, 1954. (3709 E. Raines Rd. Bus 36 to 7.) He played the Hippodrome on August 28, 1954. (500 Beale Street, downtown.) He played on a flatbed truck at the opening of the Lamar-Airways Shopping Center on September 9, 1954. The truck's not still there, but the shopping center is. 2268 Lamar Avenue (Route 78) at Park Avenue. (Bus 56.)

He played the James M. Kennedy Veterans Hospital on September 21, 1954. (Now the Memphis VA Medical Center. 1030 Jefferson Avenue, downtown.) He played Memphis State University's auditorium on November 3, 1954. (Now the Michael D. Rose Theatre Lecture Hall at the University of Memphis. 507 University Street. Bus 5.) He played the auditorium at Bethel Springs High School on January 31, 1955. (The school is now defunct, possibly also demolished, and I can't find an address for it.) He played the Chickasaw Ballroom at the Hotel Chisca on March 9, 1956. (272 S. Main Street, downtown.)

The Ellis Auditorium was the scene of Elvis' graduation ceremony from Humes High School in 1953, and many shows he attended as a fan. He performed there on November 13 and December 19, 1955; February 6 and May 15, 1956; and February 25, 1961 -- aside from a benefit for Pearl Harbor survivors in Hawaii the next month, his last shows until the taping of his "1968 Comeback Special." Built in 1926, it was demolished in 1997, and replaced by the Memphis Cook Convention Center. 255 N. Main Street at Exchange Avenue, downtown.

He also played across the river, in West Memphis, Arkansas, at a place called "P and G," on December 8, 1954. I can find no further information about it. This is one of many concerts he gave in Arkansas in his early days, but the rest were considerably farther from Memphis. West Memphis can be reached from downtown by taking the Main Street Trolley from Main at G.E. Patterson to the William Hudson Transit Center, then transferring to Bus 78, the West Memphis Express.

The tallest building in Memphis has little imagination to its name, and, like many other buildings of the 1960s and '70s (in this case, 1965), not much imagination to its style, either. It's named simply 100 North Main, for its address. It's 433 feet tall: Never mind New York City, there are currently 21 buildings in New Jersey that are taller.

Before his daughter Miley became famous, I once joked that Billy Ray Cyrus should revive his career by starring in CSI: Memphis. After My Name Is Earl (not set in Memphis) ran its course, Jason Lee played a cop on the TV show Memphis Beat.

Many music-themed movies have used Memphis as both a setting and a film location, including the Johnny Cash story Walk the Line, the Jerry Lee Lewis story Great Balls of Fire, and the pimp-turned-rapper film Hustle and Flow. John Grisham used Memphis as a setting for some of his novels, and The Client, The Firm and The Rainmaker have been filmed there.

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Memphis is more than history and music, as important as those things are. It's also the home of an NBA team that, while not yet very successful, has developed quite a following, and is now another good reason to visit this legendary city. 

Wednesday, March 2, 2022

Uncle Mike vs. Bon Jovi

March 2, 1962, 60 years ago: John Francis Bongiovi Jr. is born in Perth Amboy, Middlesex County, New Jersey. It was the same day that Wilt Chamberlain scored 100 points in a game. For a stage name, he shortened it to "Jon Bon Jovi," and named his band "Bon Jovi."

He's nearly 8 years older than I am. He grew up across the Raritan River from Perth Amboy, in Sayreville. So we didn't quite come from the same place and time. The cultural references are a little off.

Sayreville borders my hometown of East Brunswick. South River is jammed in between. The Borough of South River and the Borough of Sayreville are separated by the South River, a tributary of the Raritan. The bridge over the South River, connecting South River and Sayreville, is officially the Veterans Memorial Bridge, but is called the Polish Connector.

South River is a small town that prides itself on small-town values. The Township of East Brunswick is a sprawling community, and if anybody wants to call it "the suburbiest suburb that ever suburbed," I won't dispute it. Sayreville -- Irish 1st, Polish 2nd, Italian 3rd -- wants it both ways: They demand the blue-collar credibility and the home and job growth, and they lose credibility on both counts.

And it's got nasty hills, bad bus service, and despite a railroad that splits into 3 branches, no passenger rail station. It's also home to the Middlesex County Sewerage Authority, and my father called it Sewerville, and the name fits. I hate that town.

Bon Jovi seemed to be one of those guys in the 1980s who thought the reason Bruce Springsteen, 13 years older and from 5 towns down U.S. Route 9 in Freehold, succeeded was because he wore denim jackets and sang blue-collar songs in a gravelly voice; and thought the reason Led Zeppelin succeeded was stupidly long hair, open shirts, and screeching your lyrics. He thought he could combine the two and it would work. It was the 1980s, so it did.

I hated his music, and I hated him, with that hate that only a 16-year-old kid with more anxiety than money can understand. The kind of hate that can only be understood by a 16-year-old boy who sees better-looking guys get all the cool girls in school, and finds that the only females who want him to stay late with them are his teachers, and they aren't interested in him other than boosting his grades, and most of them aren't attractive, anyway.

The prettiest teacher in my junior year at East Brunswick High School was a Spanish teacher whose class I was in. (I'll maintain her privacy, and not mention her name.) She was very nice, and she was able to reach her students. Being not that much older than we were probably helped. But not only was she married, she missed the last 2 months of the schoolyear on maternity leave. It's just as well. The religious difference was too much. She was a Mets-odist, and I was an Orthodox Yankee Fan -- certainly, not a Reformed one.

This was 1986. In that Summer, between my junior and senior years, Bon Jovi released the album that turned Jon from rising star to superstar, Slippery When Wet. A few weeks into that senior year, the year the Mets won the World Series -- their last to date.

Bon Jovi was what we in E.B. called a ginker. If you're not familiar with that term, think of Michael Kelso (played by Ashton Kutcher) on That '70s Show, or John Bender (Judd Nelson) in The Breakfast Club. The kind of guy whose parents told him, "If you do drugs, your kids will be messed up," and was eventually surprised to find his kids copying early Eminem -- or, if girls, early Avril Lavigne.

There was a really funny moment on an episode of Who's the Boss? (Which, of course, had nothing to do with Springsteen.) Angela Bower, a middle-aged and divorced, but still very attractive, woman (Judith Light) is sitting next to a teenage girl, who is wearing headphones and chewing gum. The girl takes off her headphones, and turns to Angela, and says, "Don't you just love Bon Jovi?" Not knowing what Bon Jovi is, Angela decides to bluff, and makes a very bad guess: "Oh, yes, I think it's a wonderful fragrance."

A few minutes later, the other protagonist of the series, former baseball player Tony Micelli (Tony Danza), sits next to the same girl. She takes off her headphones, and turns to Tony, and says, "Don't you just love Bon Jovi?" He knows who Bon Jovi is -- maybe it's an Italian thing -- but says, "Actually, I'm more into the Beastie Boys." And, having a common frame of reference, he starts talking to this girl who's the same age as his daughter Samantha (Alyssa Milano). Don't worry, it's all innocent. Tony was never that kind of guy.

Eventually, with Jon, I got to see (though have never met) the real guy behind the image. He's done very good things with his fame and his fortune. I now respect him. But I still can't stand his music.

There is one moment where Jon has the advantage over Bruce, and that's in their respective greatest anthems. In "Born to Run," recorded in 1974 but not released until 1975, Bruce tells Wendy, "Someday, girl, I don't know when, we're gonna get to that place we really wanna go, and we'll walk in the Sun," but he doesn't seem to believe it, preceding it with, "There's no place left to hide." But in "Livin' On a Prayer," recorded in 1986 and a Number 1 hit in 1987, Tommy tells Gina, "Doesn't really matter if we make it or not," but also seems to promise, "We'll make it, I swear."
Note: Mutual respect, non-rebellious hair, and their shirts closed.

It is the difference between the Nixon Seventies and the more optimistic Reagan Eighties? Given that both Bruce and Jon are Democrats, it might not seem like it. But you could say that they each understood their audience in their respective times.

Bruce Springsteen was elected to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 1999; Bruce's E Street Band, collectively, in 2014; Bon Jovi, collectively as a band, including Jon Bon Jovi himself, were elected in 2018.

March 2, 1962: Wilt Chamberlain Scores 100 Points

Note the time of this post: 1:00 AM, or "100 hours."

March 2, 1962, 60 years ago: The Philadelphia Warriors played the New York Knicks, in a "home game" for the Warriors at the Hershey Sports Arena.

It was not unusual for such games to be played by NBA teams in those days, in the hopes of building a regional fanbase. It might have worked better if the games had been on television. But there is no surviving TV broadcast of this game, and it might not have been on TV at all. There is no surviving film, either. Just a radio broadcast, with Bill Campbell on the microphone, and a few photographs.

Which is too bad, because this was the game in which the Warriors' Wilt Chamberlain scored 100 points.

Wilton Norman Chamberlain was born on August 21, 1936 in Philadelphia. He was 6 feet even at age 10, and 6-foot-10 when he entered Overbrook High School in West Philadelphia. He eventually grew to 7-foot-1 and 1/16th inch. Or, as he later put it, "Kids, smoking is bad for you. I smoked a stogie when I was 14, and I haven't grown an inch since."

He also said that all the people who said, "My God, are you tall!" and "Lord, when are you going to stop growing?" and "Jesus, you are huge!" were balanced out by the people who said, "Holy shit!"

He wasn't the only pro basketball player produced by the Overbrook Rams (although they were the Panthers in his day): They also include Hal Lear, Wali Jones, Walt Hazzard, Wayne Hightower, 

Among their other celebrities: Baseball player Jeffrey Leonard, Super Bowl-winning New York Jets defensive back Johnny Sample, Philadelphia Eagles broadcaster Merrill Reese; doo-wop singers Rosetta Hightower (lead singer of The Orlons and Wayne's sister), Dee Dee Sharp and Len Barry; all the members of the soul group The Delfonics, Fresh Prince Will Smith, and Guion Bluford, the 1st black American astronaut.

Wilt excelled in track, in running, jumping and throwing events. But his combination of size, strength and speed had never been seen in basketball before. He broke Tom Gola's record to become Philadelphia's all-time high school basketball scoring leader, including 3 straight games in which he scored 74, 78 and 90 points. He led them to 3 straight Public League titles and 2 straight City Championships.

The University of Kansas, under head coach Forrest "Phog" Allen, had won the National Championship in 1952, lost the NCAA Final in 1953, and opened the Fieldhouse that would later bear Allen's name in 1955. Wilt went there, and led them to the NCAA Final in 1957, where they lost in triple overtime to North Carolina.

Until the 1970s, only Conference Champions and independents could enter the NCAA Tournament, and Kansas did not repeat as Big Eight Champions in 1958. After that junior year, Wilt left KU and signed with the Harlem Globetrotters. They paid him more than any NBA team would have, and he loved the traveling, going all over the world.

For the 1959-60 season, with his college class having graduated, he was eligible to play in the NBA, and the Philadelphia Warriors selected him with their territorial pick. He was now a teammate of Gola and Paul Arizin, both of whom went on to the Basketball Hall of Fame. And the Warriors' coach was the coach of the North Carolina team that had stopped him in the 1957 NCAA Final: Frank McGuire. McGuire knew Wilt was not a disciplinary problem, so he pretty much let Wilt play however he wanted.

As a result, Wilt practically re-wrote the NBA record book. In spite of this, the Warriors couldn't get past the Boston Celtics: Bill Russell wasn't quite as good a player as Wilt, but he was able to do something Wilt wasn't: He made his teammates better. The Warriors lost the Eastern Division Finals to the Celtics in 1960 and 1962, and lost the Division Semifinals to the Syracuse Nationals in 1961.

Wilt led the NBA in scoring in 1960 and 1961. Nobody could stop him. The league widened the lane, in the hopes that stopping him could be made easier. It didn't help. On November 24, 1960, at the Convention Hall of the Philadelphia Civic Center, perhaps the most Wiltian game of all was played. Wilt grabbed 55 rebounds. In one game. Against Russell. He also scored 34 points. But the Celtics won the game, anyway.

In the 1961-62 season, he was averaging about 50 points a game. He had games of 73 and 78 points, to set new NBA records. In the All-Star Game, he scored 42, setting a record that stood until 2017, broken by Anthony Davis. On March 2, having not gotten any sleep the night before, he went out to Hershey with his Warrior teammates to play the Knicks.
  
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This is what the world was like at the time of the Wilt 100 Game:

The National Basketball Association had just 9 teams, meaning 8 made the Playoffs. At the time, the Knicks were so bad (How bad were they?), Marv Albert, then a student at Syracuse University, and not far from being named their main radio announcer, said he was convinced that the regular season served only to eliminate the Knicks.

The Knicks, the Warriors, the Boston Celtics and the Syracuse Nationals were in the Eastern Division. The Western Division consisted of the Los Angeles Lakers, the Detroit Pistons, the Cincinnati Royals, the St. Louis Hawks, and... the Chicago Packers.

Yes, you read that right: The Chicago Packers. It was their 1st season. But no Chicago Bears fan wanted to pay to see a team called the Packers. For the 1962-63 season, their name was changed to the Chicago Zephyrs. Still, nobody wanted to watch them. So they moved, taking the name of a team that had folded in 1954: The Baltimore Bullets. Today, they are the Washington Wizards.

Despite having Wilt, the Warriors moved to San Francisco after the season. A year later, the Nationals moved to replace them, becoming the Philadelphia 76ers. The Hawks moved to Atlanta in 1968. The Royals became the Kansas City Kings in 1972, and the Sacramento Kings in 1985.

Despite their move, the Nationals' arena, the Onondaga County War Memorial, still stands, now known as the Upstate Medical University Arena. So does Cobo Hall, the home of the Pistons, now named Huntington Place. The other 7 NBA arenas from 1962 are gone: The old Madison Square Garden was demolished in 1968, the Kiel Auditorium in 1992, the Boston Garden in 1998, the International Amphitheatre in Chicago in 1999, the Philadelphia Civic Center in 2005, the Los Angeles Memorial Sports Arena in 2016, and the Cincinnati Gardens in 2018.

The Commissioner of the NBA, still the only one the league had had since it was founded in 1946, was Maurice Podoloff. He was older than the sport itself: He was born somewhere in the Ukraine (he said records weren't kept) on August 18, 1890, and Dr. James Naismith invented basketball in Springfield, Massachusetts on December 21, 1891. (Podoloff, a lawyer who built and operated the New Haven Arena in Connecticut and also served as President of the American Hockey League, retired as NBA Commissioner in 1963, and lived until 1985.)

Wilt wasn't the only NBA star having a season for the ages: Oscar Robertson of the Royals averaged 30.8 points, 12.5 rebounds, and 11.4 assists. That's right: He averaged a triple-double for the season. Nobody knew that, though, until the NBA made it an official statistic for the 1979-80 season. Oddly, it was Wilt's friend, Harvey Pollack, the statistician for Philadelphia basketball teams from the founding of the league and the Warriors in 1946 until his death in 2015, who coined the term, and led the NBA to adopt it.

"The Big O" would be the only NBA player to average a triple-double for an entire season until 2017, when Russell Westbrook did it for the 1st time. Through the 2020-21 season, he's now done it 4 times. However, in only 1 of those 4 seasons did he top Robertson in points, in only 1 (a different one) did he top him in assists, and in none of them did he top him in rebounds.

Jerry Lucas, John Havlicek, Jim Calhoun, Willis Reed, David Stern and Bill Bradley were still in college. Rick Barry, Pat Riley, Walt Frazier, Phil Jackson, Elvin Hayes, Mike Krzyzewski, Kareem Abdul-Jabbar and Pete Maravich were in high school.

Dave Cowens and Gregg Popovich were 13 years old; Julius Erving was 12; Roy Williams was 11; Pat Summitt and Bill Walton were 9; Geno Auriemma was 7, and Moses Malone was about to turn 7; Bernard King and Larry Bird were 5; Magic Johnson was 2, Isiah Thomas and Dennis Rodman were 9 months old; and John Stockton, Clyde Drexler, Patrick Ewing, Hakeem Olajuwon, Michael Jordan, Charles Barkley and Karl Malone weren’t born yet.

Mets manager Buck Showalter was 5 years old, Knicks coach Tom Thibodeau was 4, Devils coach Lindy Ruff was 2; and the other current New York Tri-State Area head coaches and managers weren't born yet.

The Celtics were the defending NBA Champions, the Chicago Black Hawks held the Stanley Cup, the Yankees were baseball's World Champions, the Green Bay Packers had won the NFL Championship, and the Houston Oilers had won the AFL Championship. That franchise, now known as the Tennessee Titans, hasn't gone as far as the rules allowed them to go since then. The Heavyweight Champion of the World was Floyd Patterson.

The Olympic Games have since been held 4 times each in America and Japan; 3 times in Canada; twice each in Austria, France, Russia, Korea and China; and once each in Mexico, Germany, Bosnia, Spain, Norway, Australia, Greece, Italy, Britain and Brazil. The World Cup has since been held twice each in Mexico and Germany; and once each in America, England, Chile, Argentina, Spain, Italy, France, Japan, Korea, South Africa, Brazil and Russia.

Segregation was still in place in several States. There was no Medicare, no Medicaid, no Environmental Protection Agency, no OSHA, no Title IX. The ideas that a woman could legally obtain an abortion, or that people of the same gender could get married and be entitled to all the rights of a married couple, were ridiculous. But then, so was the idea that corporations were "people" and entitled to the rights thereof.

The President of the United States was John F. Kennedy. Dwight D. Eisenhower, Harry Truman, their wives, Herbert Hoover, and the widow of Franklin Delano Roosevelt were still alive.

Lyndon Johnson was Vice President. Richard Nixon was running for Governor of California. Gerald Ford was in the U.S. House of Representatives. Jimmy Carter was running for the State Senate in Georgia. Ronald Reagan was acting. George H.W. Bush was in the oil business in Texas, and his son George W. was in high school. So were Bill Clinton, Hillary Rodham and Donald Trump. Joe Biden was in college. Jill Biden was 11 years old. Michelle Obama, Melania Trump and Kamala Harris weren't born yet.

The Governor of the State of New York was Nelson Rockefeller, of the powerful oil and banking family. The Mayor of the City of New York was Robert F. Wagner Jr., son of one of the greatest U.S. Senators. The Governor of New Jersey was Richard J. Hughes. And, in the places in question, the Governor of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania was David L. Lawrence, and the Mayor of Philadelphia was James Tate.

The current holders of those offices? Kathy Hochul was 3 years old, Eric Adams was a year and a half, Phil Murphy was 4, Tom Wolf was 13, and Jim Kenney was 3.

There were still living veterans of America's Indian Wars and Canada's North-West Rebellion. There were still living players from that 1st basketball game in 1891.

The Nobel Peace Prize had been awarded, for the only time in its history, posthumously, to Dag Hammarskjöld, Secretary-General of the United Nations, for his efforts to end civil wars in Africa. He had been killed in a plane crash the preceding September, and awarded the Prize in November.

The Prime Minister of Canada was Lester Pearson; and of Britain, Harold Macmillan. The monarch of both nations was Queen Elizabeth II -- that hasn't changed. The Pope was John XXIII. The current Pope, Francis, was Jorge Mario Bergoglio, was 25, and had taken his Jesuit vows, although he had not yet been ordained as a priest. There have since been 12 Presidents of the United States, 12 Prime Ministers of Britain, and 6 Popes.

Major novels of 1962 included Another Country by James Baldwin, Lilies of the Field by William Barrett, Fail-Safe by Eugene Burdick and Harvey Wheeler, A Clockwork Orange by Anthony Burgess, The Mirror Crack'd from Side to Side by Agatha Christie, King Rat by James Clavell, The IPCRESS File by Len Deighton, The Thin Red Line by James Jones, Big Sur by Jack Kerouac, One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest by Ken Kesey, Seven Days in May by Fletcher Knebel and Charles W. Bailey II, Ship of Fools by Katherine Anne Porter, One Day in the Life of Ivan Denisovich by Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn, Mother Night by Kurt Vonnegut, the alternate-history story The Man in the High Castle by Philip K. Dick, and the last novel by William Faulkner, The Reivers.

For children, Madeleine L'Engle published A Wrinkle in Time, and Ezra Jack Keats published The Snowy Day. Definitely not for kids, Helen Gurley Brown published Sex and the Single Girl, Barbara Tuchman published The Guns of August, Milton Friedman published Capitalism and Freedom, and Edward Albee premiered his play Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf? For everybody, John Steinbeck published Travels With Charley: In Search of America, and Rachel Carson launched the modern environmental movement with Silent Spring.

Notable films in the late Winter of 1962 included Light in the Piazza, Walk on the Wild Side, a remake of State Fair, and the last of Bob Hope and Bing Crosby's "Road Pictures," The Road to Hong Kong. Ian Fleming had just published the James Bond novel The Spy Who Loved Me, and Sean Connery was filming the 1st Bond film, Dr. No. The late George Reeves was the last live-action Superman, Robert Lowery the last live-action Batman, and Doctor Who was still just a concept.

C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien were still alive and writing. Gene Roddenberry was still writing for TV. George Lucas, Steven Spielberg and Stephen King were in high school. George R.R. Martin was in junior high. J.K. Rowling wasn't born yet.

The Number 1 song in America was "Duke of Earl" by Gene Chandler. Elvis Presley was about to premiere the film Follow That Dream, beginning his commercial downward spiral. The Beatles had begun to be managed by Brian Epstein. Bob Dylan was just getting started in the recording industry. Elton John was 15; Billy Joel and Bruce Springsteen were 12; and Michael Jackson, Madonna and Prince were all 3.

Inflation was such that what $1.00 bought then, $9.31 would buy now. A U.S. postage stamp cost 4 cents, and a New York Subway ride 15 cents. The average price of a gallon of gas was 31 cents, a cup of coffee 34 cents, a McDonald's meal (cheeseburger -- no Big Mac yet -- fries and shake) 49 cents, a movie ticket 81 cents, a new car $2,500, and a new house $19,508. The Dow Jones Industrial Average closed that day at 711.00.

The tallest building in the world was the Empire State Building. Telephone numbers were still based on "exchanges," based on the letters on a rotary dial. So a number that, today, would be (718) 293-6000 (this is the number for the Yankees' ticket office, so I’m not hurting anyone's privacy), would have been CYpress 3-6000. That would change: On May 11, 1962, all-number calling would begin.

There were no ZIP Codes, either. They ended up being based on the old system: The old New York Daily News Building, at 220 East 42nd Street, was "New York 17, NY"; it became "New York, NY 10017" starting on July 1, 1963.

Unless you were a teenager who needed to hear the day's biggest hits on "Top 40 Radio," television had completely replaced radio for entertainment. By this point, most American homes had at least 1 TV set. However, only about 1/3rd of those homes had a color set.

Photocopiers were still new. Credit cards were still a relatively new thing, and there were no automatic teller machines in America. There were artificial kidneys, but no artificial hearts. Transplanting a kidney was possible, but not a heart, lung or liver. There were no video games. Computers could take up the entire wall of a city building. Steve Jobs had just turned 7, while Bill Gates and Tim Berners-Lee were 6. Men had been launched into Earth orbit, but not past it. President Kennedy had set the goal of putting a man on the Moon and returning him safely to the Earth by the end of the decade.

In the late Winter of 1962, President Kennedy announced an embargo against Cuba. The London-based Sunday Times became the 1st newspaper to print a color supplement. France granted Algeria its independence, ending a 7-year war. A cola mine explosion in West Germany killed nearly 300 people. Another 300 Germans died in a flood of the North Sea. The U.S. and the Soviet Union exchanged captured spies, Francis Gary Powers of U-2 plane fame for Rudolf Abel. Margot Fonteyn and Rudolf Nureyev danced together for the 1st time. A coup in Burma resulted in a military ditctatorship.

In America, First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy led a nationally-televised tour of the White House. John Glenn became the 1st American to be launched into Earth orbit. Two of the Flying Wallendas were killed when their "seven-person pyramid" collapsed during a performance in Detroit. Comedian Danny Thomas founded the St. Jude Children's Research Hospital in Memphis. The 1st annual 24 Hours of Daytona race was run. The 1st Kmart store opened in Garden City, Michigan. And the 1st Taco Bell restaurant opened in Downey, California.

Conductor Bruno Walter, and baseball pitcher George Mogridge, and football legend Walt Kiesling died. Garth Brooks, and Chris Chelios, and Jackie Joyner-Kersee were born.

That's what the world was like on March 2, 1962, when the 46-29 Philadelphia Warriors took on the 27-45 New York Knickerbockers at the Hershey Arena in Hershey, Pennsylvania. It was the Warriors' 3rd "home game" there that season.

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Only 4,124 people paid to see the game in the 7,286-seat arena, built in 1936. The game was not televised, in either New York or Philadelphia. No film footage is known to exist. In other words, only those 4,124 people, plus the teams, plus the people working with them, plus the people otherwise working in the arena, ever saw this performance. The only known recording is a off an audiotape, of the 4th quarter, of Bill Campbell (who also broadcast for the Philadelphia Phillies and Eagles) on WCAU, 1210 on the AM dial (now WPHT).

Before the game, the Philadelphia Eagles and the Baltimore Colts, football teams played a charity basketball game. (The arena is 14 miles east of the State Capitol in Harrisburg, 96 miles west of Center City Philadelphia, and 81 miles north of downtown Baltimore.) It is suspected that more of the 4,124 people paid to see that than to see the Warriors take on the woeful Knicks.

At the end of the 1st quarter, the Warriors led 42-26, and Chamberlain had 23 points. Darrall Imhoff had helped the University of California win the 1959 National Championship, but he was now tasked with guarding Wilt for the Knicks. He was soon benched for getting into foul trouble, and asked the ref, "Why don't you just give the guy a hundred now, and we'll all go home?" Fine question to ask: Referees rarely gave Wilt the benefit of the doubt.

At the half, it was Warriors 79, Knicks 68. Wilt had added another 18 points, for 41. Teammate Guy Rodgers, formerly a star at Temple University, cited a nickname Wilt liked, "the Big Dipper," because he had to dip his head under some doorways (he hated the nickname "Wilt the Stilt"), or "Dippy" or "Dip" for short, and said, "Let's get the ball to Dip. Let's see how many he can get." McGuire had no problem with this.

When Wilt got to 50, Dave Zinkoff -- the public-address announcer for Philadelphia's NBA teams from the league's founding in 1946 until his death in 1985 -- began to shout the number, to get the small crowd going. And it worked. By the time the 3rd quarter ended, with the Warriors leading 125-106, and Wilt added 28 to make 69, the fans were chanting, "Give it to Wilt! Give it to Wilt! Give it to Wilt!"

With 7:51 left, Wilt got to 79, breaking his own record. Al Attles, who would later coach the Warriors to the 1975 NBA Championship, passed up an easy layup and passed to Wilt, so he could score points 88 and 89, with 5 minutes to go. Attles later said, "We wanted that Wilt got the record, because we all liked him."

The Knicks changed strategy, fouling any player but Wilt, to try to stop him from getting 100. He got to 96 with a fadeaway with 2:12 to go. He didn't dunk often, but he slammed one home for 98 with 1:19 left.

With less than a minute to go, Joe Ruklick passed to Rogers, who saw Wilt close to the basket, and passed to him for the chance at 99 and 100. But he missed. Ted Luckenbill got the rebound, and passed to Wilt, who put up another shot, and missed again. Luckenbill got another rebound, and passed to Ruklick. He had an easy layup, but sacrificed it to lob it to Wilt. With 46 seconds left, Wilt jumped and laid the ball in. (Some accounts say it was a dunk, but most say it was a layup.)

Wilt had 100. About 200 fans stormed the court. Ruklick, wanting to be a part of history, got through them to the scorer's table. He wanted it recorded for all time that he had the assist for Wilt's 99th and 100th points of the night.

It is widely believed -- and Wilt himself claimed -- that the remainder of the game was never played. The surviving recording proves that this wasn't true: It took 9 minutes to clear the court, and the last 46 seconds were played. Wilt did play them, but did not score again. It's just as well: 101, 102, 103 or 104 wouldn't have had the same historical oomph as the nice, round, even number of 100.

Final score: Warriors 169, Knicks 147. This would remain the highest-scoring game in NBA history for 21 years. That final score was then the highest in NBA history, and the combined total of 316 points would remain an NBA record for 21 years.

Everybody else on the Warriors: Al Attles scored 17, Paul Arizin 16, Tom Meschery 16, Guy Rodgers 11, York Larese 9; and, playing but not scoring, Ed Conlin, Joe Ruklick and Ted Luckenbill.

For the Knicks: Richie Guerin 39, Cleveland Buckner 33, Willie Naulls 31, Dave Budd 13, Donnie Butcher 10, Al Butler 8, Darrall Imhoff 7 and Johnny Green 6.

After the game, Harvey Pollack, the Warriors' statistician and publicist since day one, who would hold that job for the 76ers until his death in 2015, found him in the locker room, and gave him a piece of paper with the number 100 on it, figuring a photograph of him holding it would make for good publicity. Pollack was right.

Wilt set these records: Most points in a game, 100; most points in a half, 59; most field goals in a game, 36; most field goals in a half, 22; and, belying his infamous problems with shooting them, most free throws in a game, 28, in 32 attempts.

Think about that: Wilt scored 100 despite being fouled 16 times, an average of once every 3 minutes. He also scored 100 without the 3-point field goal being available to him: The NBA would not adopt it until 1979, 6 years after his last game. With no video, we'll never know how many he would have scored if the 3-pointer had been available to him.

That season, Wilt scored more points than any player ever has, 4,029, over 1,000 more than the next-best total, by Michael Jordan, the only other guy ever to get 3,000 in a season.

Wilt averaged 50.36 points per game. Today, when a player has a single 50-point game, the way Ja Morant got 52 for the Memphis Grizzlies the other day, it's a big deal. Wilt averaged over 50 a game that season. Even if you take out that 1 game, he still averaged 49.73. As the man himself said, "So, it was like doubling my average."

Wilt had games of 78 and 73 points that season. Take out those 2 games, and the 100-pointer, and he still averaged 49.06 points per game. He also had 2 games with 67, 2 with 65, 3 with 62, 3 with 61, and 2 with 60.

The previous record was 71. The highest total since has been 81 by Kobe Bryant in 2006, and that included 7 treys. So, under the old rules, it would have been 74, still the 3rd-highest ever, behind Wilt and... Wilt.

Despite Wilt's achievements, at the end of the 1961-62 season, the Warriors were sold, and moved across the continent. They would play from 1962 to 1971 as the San Francisco Warriors, then move across the Bay to Oakland, using the name Golden State Warriors. They returned to San Francisco in 2019, but have kept the Golden State name.

After 1 season without an NBA team, 1962-63, Philadelphia got the Syracuse Nationals to move into the Warriors' former home, the Convention Hall of the Philadelphia Civic Center. They were renamed the Philadelphia 76ers. They moved into The Spectrum in 1967, and the arena now named the Wells Fargo Center in 1996. Wilt died in 1999, and a statue of him now stands outside the Wells Fargo Center.

The arena in question, built in 1936, still stands, under the name of the Hersheypark Arena. It was long the home of the Hershey Bears of the American Hockey League, until 2002, when a new arena was built adjacent, now named the Giant Center after a supermarket chain.

Wilt would lead the Warriors to the NBA Finals in 1964, where they lost to the Celtics. In 1965, he was traded back to his hometown, to the 76ers. In 1966, his 7th season in the NBA, he led the league in scoring for the 7th straight year.

Finally, in 1966-67, he did not league the NBA in scoring. But the Sixers were better off. They won 41 of their 1st 44 games, finished 68-13 to set a new league record for wins in a season, embarrassed the Celtics in the Eastern Conference Finals, and then beat, oddly enough, the Warriors in the Finals. Wilt finally had his title.

In 1968, he was traded to the Los Angeles Lakers, and he lived in L.A. for the rest of his life. The Lakers lost the Finals to the Celtics again in 1969, and to the Knicks in 1970. In 1971-72, they set a North American major league sports record that still stands with a 33-game winning streak. For the 2nd time, Wilt led a team that broke the NBA record for wins in a season, going 69-13. They beat the Knicks in the Finals. The next season, the Knicks beat the Lakers in the Finals, and Wilt retired.

Don't say Kobe. Don't say LeBron. Don't say Jordan. Wilt Chamberlain is the greatest basketball player of all time. He not only did to offensive stats in basketball what Babe Ruth did to them in baseball and Wayne Gretzky in hockey, he was the best defensive player, too. At the absolute least, 2nd in his time to Bill Russell.

Today, young fans like to say, "Wilt played against slow white guys." He also played against fast white guys. And fast black guys. In a league not watered down by expansion. Sure, the Knicks were bad, but there was no Donald Sterling-era Clippers, or pre-Jason Kidd Nets in the league.

Some young fans like to say, "Wilt played against plumbers." Guys who couldn't stay in shape all year long, because salaries were so low, they had to get off-season jobs. Well, if they were plumbers, then they brought their wrenches into the game, because Wilt got fouled like crazy, and it didn't stop him. Shaquille O'Neal whined about "Hack-a-Shaq." He didn't take half of what Wilt took, back when games weren't televised, and players knew they could get away with stuff that wouldn't get played on ESPN 5 times an hour. LeBron James? He would have faced the 1960s Celtics, with their thuggery, and run in stark terror.

At the 1997 All-Star Game, in Cleveland, the league's 50th Anniversary 50 Greatest Players were introduced. In the locker room before the halftime introduction, Jordan was holding court, smoking a cigar, and bragging about how he was the greatest basketball player who ever lived.

Wilt had been hearing this for a few years, and he walked over to Jordan, and, very calmly, said, "Michael, my man, when you played, they changed the rules to make it easier for him. When I played, they changed the rules to make it harder for me. And it didn't work."

And he walked away. Dead silence in the room. Talk about "dropping the Mike."
Wilt died of heart trouble at his Los Angeles home on October 12, 1999. He was 63 years old.

UPDATE: On March 10, 2026, Bam Adebayo scored 83 for the Miami Heat in a win over the Washington Wizards. That is now the most since Wilt's 100. He had 7 3-pointers, so it would have been 76 under the rules Wilt played under; and he broke Wilt's record for most points on, and attempts on, free throws, raising it to 36 out of 43. After the game, he said, "Wilt, me, then Kobe. Sounds crazy."