Before You Go. You've no doubt heard the legends of wind blasting off Lake Erie and "lake-effect snow." Well, in spite of it being early November, Cleveland.com, the website connected with the city's main newspaper, The Plain Dealer, is predicting temperatures for Sunday and Monday to be in the high 40s by day, the low 40s by night. And a 40 percent chance of rain. Bring a winter jacket.
Cleveland is in the Eastern Time Zone, so you won't have to change your timepieces.
Tickets. The Cavaliers averaged 20,562 fans per home game last season, trailing only the Chicago Bulls. That's a sellout every game. But LeBron James is gone and it remains to be seen if Northern Ohioans will pay to see a Cavs team without Number 23.
In the lower level, the 100 sections, seats between the baskets can run $265, behind them $36. In the upper level, the 200 sections, they go for $69 between the baskets and $22 behind them.
Getting There. Cleveland is 500 land miles from New York. Well, not quite: Specifically, it is 465 miles from Times Square to Public Square. Knowing this, your first reaction is going to be to fly out there.
This may not be a good idea. Sometimes, you can get a round-trip ticket for under $600, but, this weekend, both American and United Airlines are charging twice as much: Nearly $800.
Like New York, Boston and Chicago, but unlike most of the American League cities, Cleveland has good rapid transit from the airport to downtown. In fact, with the extension of the RTA Rapid Transit's Red Line in 1968, Cleveland became the first city in the Western Hemisphere to have rapid transit direct from downtown to its major airport.
Cleveland Hopkins International Airport, named for William R. Hopkins, a City Manager in the 1920s and an early pilot, is about 12 miles southwest of downtown, and the Red Line takes 24 minutes, 9 stops, to get from Hopkins to Tower City. The cost for a single ride on any RTA line is $2.25, which is now cheaper than the New York Subway. An all-day pass is a bargain at just $5.00.
From Tower City, underneath the iconic Terminal Tower on Public Square, there is a walkway directly to Progressive Field and the adjoining Quicken Loans Arena – meaning you could fly in, ride in, walk in, see a baseball or basketball game, walk out, ride out and fly out, all in one day. But you really should take a day to see the city.
Train? Bad idea. Not because of the price, which is $168 round-trip, but because of the schedule. The Lake Shore Limited (formerly known as the Twentieth Century Limited when the old New York Central Railroad ran it from Grand Central Terminal to Chicago's LaSalle Street Station) leaves New York's Penn Station at 3:40 every afternoon, and arrives at Cleveland's Lakefront Station at 3:33 in the morning. In reverse, the train leaves Lakefront Station at 5:50 AM and arrives back at Penn Station at 6:23 PM. Time-wise, this is incredibly inconvenient.
And, unlike the Cleveland Union Terminal, now known as Tower City Center but hasn't had long-distance passenger rail traffic since 1977, Lakefront Station, at 200 Cleveland Memorial Shoreway, is not exactly one of the great rail terminals of this country. To make matters worse, while the RTA Green Line and Blue Line both serve Lakefront Station, the RTA doesn't run overnight, and thus any Amtrak train that comes into the station will not be serviced by it.
How about Greyhound? There are 9 buses leaving Port Authority every day with connections to Cleveland, but only 2 of these are nonstop: The rest require you to change buses in Pittsburgh or Buffalo. The ride, including the changeover, takes about 13 hours. Round-trip fare is $236, although it can be as little as $130 with advanced purchase.
The terminal, at 1465 Chester Avenue, adjacent to the Cleveland State University campus east of downtown, was a hideously filthy hole on my first visit in 1999, but apparently they got the message and cleaned it up, because it's tolerable again. At least on the inside; on the outside, it's a magnet for panhandlers. It's a 7-block walk from the terminal to Public Square, but it's better to take a cab, or to walk 3 blocks to the corner of 13th Street & Superior Avenue and take the Number 3 bus in.
If you decide to drive, the directions are rather simple, down to (almost literally) the last mile. You'll need to get into New Jersey, and take Interstate 80 West. You'll be on I-80 for the vast majority of the trip, through New Jersey, Pennsylvania and Ohio. In Ohio, in the western suburbs of Cleveland, I-80 will merge with Interstate 90. I point this out merely to help you avoid confusion, not because I-90 will become important. You'll take I-80's Exit 173, and get onto Interstate 77 North. Take Exit 163 toward E. 9th St. This will take you into downtown. If you're driving, I would definitely recommend getting a hotel, and there are several downtown, including some near the ballpark.
If you do it right, you should spend about an hour and a half in New Jersey, 5 hours and 15 minutes in Pennsylvania, and a little over an hour in Ohio. Counting rest stops, preferably at either end of Pennsylvania, and accounting for traffic in both New York and Cleveland, it should be no more than 10 hours.
Once In the City. Cleveland, which once had a city population of over 900,000, but is now under 400,000 with a metro area population of 3.5 million, was founded in 1796 by Moses Cleaveland, a hero of the War of the American Revolution, a General in the Connecticut militia, and a shareholder in the Connecticut Land Company. When the Northwest Ordinance was passed in 1787, a lot of New Englanders moved to what's now the Great Lakes States, and many "original" Ohio families can trace their roots back to Connecticut and Moses' expedition to what was known as the Western Reserve.
Supposedly, the reason for the difference in spelling is that, in 1830, the city's first newspaper was established, but the editor found "Cleaveland Advertiser" was too long to fit on the incorporation form, so he dropped an A.
The city doesn't really have a highway "beltway" as we understand that term. It is centered on Public Square, at the intersection of Ontario Street and Superior Avenue (U.S. Route 6), with Euclid Avenue (U.S. Route 20) flowing into it. The Terminal Tower, a 708-foot Art Deco masterpiece, is at the southwest corner of Public Square, and includes the Tower City rail hub and shopping mall. It opened in 1930 and, until 1964, was the tallest building in North America outside New York.
At the southeast corner is the Soldiers & Sailors Monument, probably the best memorial to the American Civil War outside of that war's preserved battlefields. And at the northeast corner is the Key Tower, at 948 feet now the tallest building in the State of Ohio; Richard Jacobs, who owned the Indians for a time, also owned the real estate development company that built the Key Tower (named for Key Bank) in 1991.
Cuyahoga County Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument,
at Public Square
Cleveland is one of the cities that had a major race riot -- in their case, on the East Side in 1966 -- which led to "white flight": The city's population was 83 percent white in 1950, but just 33 percent white now, along with 53 percent black, 10 percent Hispanic and 2 percent Asian.
Cleveland had been comparatively free of racial strife until July 18, 1966. But that doesn't mean it was free of crime. In particular, the East Side, centered on the Hough neighborhood, had issues, including with The Seventy-Niner's Café at East 79th Street and Hough Avenue. A confrontation there between police and patrons escalated to the point where, over the next 5 days, 4 people were killed, 50 others were injured, and 275 were arrested.
Two years later, there was another incident on the East Side, what became known as the Glenville Shootout. The police and black nationalists fired at each other on July 23, 1968, and this led to rioting. Between the shootout and the riot, 9 people were killed including 3 policemen, and 16 others were wounded in the shootout.
The Kent State University massacre, about 40 miles southeast of Public Square, on May 4, 1970, was about the Vietnam War, not racial issues. Northern Ohio had no more civil disturbances until October 15, 2005, when neo-Nazis calling themselves the National Socialist Movement demonstrated against black gang activity in Toledo, and got their asses handed to them by a group called Anti-Racist Action.
On November 22, 2014, Tamir Rice, a 12-year-old black boy, was carrying a toy gun at the Cudell Recreation Center on Cleveland's West Side, was shot and killed by police. Along with the police killings of Eric Garner in New York and Michael Brown in the St. Louis area, both earlier in the year, this was one of the sparks of the Black Lives Matter movement.
The Greater Cleveland Regional Transit Authority (RTA) runs a heavy rail Red Line, similar to New York's Subway, and light rail Blue and Green Lines. They converge at the Tower City, and all 3 run together from there to East 55th Street. The Blue and Green Lines both start at South Harbor, and run together to Shaker Square before diverging. The fare is $2.25, and is the same for RTA buses. A 5-trip farecard is $11.25 -- no savings at all.
An RTA train at Tower City
It also hosts an Arena Football team called the Cleveland Gladiators. It was home to the WNBA's Cleveland Rockers from the league's debut in 1997 until the team folded in 2003. It hosted the 2014 ArenaBowl, although the Gladiators lost it. It is a secondary home court for the basketball team at Cleveland State University. It hosted the Republican Convention in 2016. Hopefully, now that Donald Trump and his Deplorables have left, they've fumigated it.
The official address is 1 Center Court, and it's across Bolivar Road from Progressive Field, home of the Cleveland Indians. Parking at lots around the ballpark runs from $5.00 to $20. As I said, a walkway runs from Tower City into a parking deck, and it extends into the arena itself. The court is laid out north-to-south.
Food. Ohio -- much more than New Jersey and Maryland, which get into the conference last year -- is part of Big Ten Country, where college football tailgate parties are practically a sacrament. You would think that an Ohio basketball team would have good food options, and you'd be right.
They have Quaker Steak and Lube, Rocco's at The Q, Michael Symon's B Spot, Cheers & Beers, Twist and Stout, and 2 stands each for Dippin Dots and real ice cream from Cold Stone Creamery.
Team History Displays. The Cavaliers have won their Division 6 times: in 1976, 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016 and 2017 -- and honor them with a single banner. They've won the Eastern Conference 5 times, in 2007, 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018. And, while it took them 46 seasons, they finally won the NBA title in 2016.
In spite of this weak history, the Cavs have 7 retired numbers. From the '76 "Miracle of Richfield" team that got all the way to the Eastern Conference Finals before falling to the Boston Celtics, the've retired 7 for forward Bobby "Bingo" Smith, 34 for guard Austin Carr, and 42 for center Nate Thurmond.
From their good teams of the early 1990s, who unfortunately got stuck behind Isiah Thomas' Detroit Pistons and the Michael Jordan's Chicago Bulls, they've retired 22 for forward Larry Nance, 25 for guard Mark Price, and 43 for center Brad Daugherty. And from the 2007 Conference Champions, they've retired 11 for center Žydrūnas Ilgauskas. Since things have been patched up between the organization and LeBron, it's likely that his Number 23 will be retired when he calls it a career.
They've also honored longtime broadcaster Joe Tait with a banner. The earlier players' banners are to the left of the championship banners, the more recent ones to the right. They hang from the east end of the arena, a section nicknamed Loudville.
But there are no Cavaliers' Hall-of-Famers, unless you want to count Wilkens as a head coach (7 years) or Wayne Embry as general manager (13 years). They may have to wait until LeBron retires and then becomes eligible. So we're probably talking 2025 at the earliest.
UPDATE: In 2019, the Cavs introduced their Wall of Honor, in the arena's North Atrium. It includes all the retired number honorees, plus original owner Nick Mileti, original head coach and general manager Bill Fitch, former GM Wayne Embry, early 1970s forward John "J.J." Johnson, and late 1980s, early 1990s forward John "Hot Rod" Williams. Presumably, LeBron will be added, and his Number 23 officially retired, when he retires as a player.
The Cavs have 2 major regional rivalries. They trail the one with the Chicago Bulls 142-104, and the one with the Detroit Pistons 130-105.
There are also banners at The Q honoring the old Cleveland Barons, who won the American Hockey League title, the Calder Cup, how many times, Ed Rooney? "Nine times!" They won it in 1939, 1941, 1945, 1948, 1951, 1953, 1954, 1957 and 1964. The Monsters have added 2016, to make it 10 Calder Cups for Cleveland.
In addition to a banner honoring the Barons' Calder Cups, The Q has retired numbers for Barons stars Johnny Bower (1, later a Hall of Fame goalie for the Toronto Maple Leafs) and Fred Glover (9, he had previously played for the Wings and gotten his name on the Stanley Cup in 1952); and Jock Callander of the Cleveland Lumberjacks (15, now a broadcaster for the Monsters, but his only cups in the NHL were "cups of coffee" with the Pittsburgh Penguins).
There is a Greater Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame. It includes Cavaliers players Smith, Carr, Earl Boykins, Jim Chones, Campy Russell and Elmore Smith; owners Nick Mileti and Gordon Gund, and executive Harry Weltman.
It also includes 3 figures from the Cleveland Pipers, who won the Championship of the American Basketball League in its only season, 1961-62: Player Dave Demko, head coach John McClendon (a black head coach, 5 years before the NBA had one), and their owner, in his 1st foray into professional sports: A 31-year-old shipbuilding executive named George Steinbrenner.
Stuff. The Cavaliers Team Shop is on the lower level of the north side of the arena, on 6th Street. Among the items they sell are foam "cavalier swords" and LeBron-style headbands. (Chalk powder, no.)
In 1994, to celebrate the team moving back into town after 20 years in the suburbs, Joe Menzer and Burt Graeff wrote Cavs from Fitch to Fratello: The Sometimes Miraculous, Often Hilarious Wild Ride of the Cleveland Cavaliers. More recently, Vince McKee and Mary Schmitt Boyer wrote Cleveland Cavaliers: A History of the Wine & Gold.
The title has led to several books about the 2015-16 Cavs. Not surprisingly, the great Cleveland sports columnist Terry Pluto has written (or, in this case, co-written with Brian Windhorst) the definitive LeBron book, The Comeback: LeBron, the Cavs & Cleveland.
Finally, having won an NBA Championship, a commemorative DVD is available from the NBA offices. ESPN's 30 for 30 documentary Believeland is also available.
During the Game. A November 13, 2014 article on DailyRotoHelp, written just as LeBron James returned to Cleveland, ranked the NBA teams' fan bases, and listed the Cavs' fans at 14th, slightly to the good of the middle. They cited what happened when LeBron left, but not what happened when he came back. Yes, he's now led them to an NBA title, but they forgave him a little too soon.
Cleveland fans really hate the Yankees. Which is understandable, as the Yankees have ruined many a season for them, including the one that just ended. But the Cavs are not the Indians, and neither the Knicks nor the Nets is the Yankees. (Actually, if you added the Knicks', Nets', Mets', Giants', Jets', Rangers', Islanders' and Devils' titles together, you'd have fewer titles than the Yankees: 27 to 24.) As long as you don't start any rough stuff -- or the classic "Cleveland Jokes" (like about the city going broke or the Cuyahoga River catching fire), your safety will not be at risk.
The October 24 game vs. the Nets will be Schedule Magnet Night and Breast Cancer Awareness Night. The December 12 game vs. the Knicks will be Holiday T-Shirt Night. The visits of the Knicks and the Nets in February will not be promotional nights.
The Cavs have 2 mascots: A dog named Moondog, named for Cleveland disc jockey Alan Freed, who coined the phrase "rock and roll," nicknmed himself "Moondog," hosted the first true rock concerts at the old Cleveland Arena, and then came to New York and introduced the Tri-State Area to the phenomenon over radio station WINS; and Sir C.C., for "Cleveland Cavaliers," a man in a Three Musketeers-type uniform.
The Cavs do not have a regular National Anthem singer, and hold auditions. Before Game 6 of the 2015 NBA Finals, they brought in Marlana VanHoose, a 19-year-old blind girl with cerebral palsy, from Kentucky, and she brought the house down. The team's entrance sword was written especially for them, and is titled "Fear the Sword."
On June 4, 2015, during the Finals, the Plain Dealer printed a column on "11 phrases every Cavaliers bandwagon fan should know." Or, rather, everybody who was rooting for the Cavs, and then the Heat, and now the Cavs again, because their loyalty isn't to any one team, but to LeBron.
After the Game. Cleveland has some rough areas, but you should be safe downtown. There are a number of places you could go after the game, with names like the Greenhouse (2038 East 4th Street at Prospect Avenue) and the Winking Lizard (1301 E. 9th Street at St. Clair Avenue). A House of Blues is at 308 Euclid Avenue, 5 blocks from the park.
The aforementioned Winking Lizard, a.k.a. "Winks," is the local hangout for Jet fans. Anthony's, at 10703 W. Pleasant Valley Road, is known as a bar for Giant fans. But it's hard to reach by public transportation: Bus 45 to 7360 York Road, then a 12-minute walk.
There was a restaurant called the New York Spaghetti House on East 9th Street, just a few steps from the ballpark, but it went out of business in 2001. Original owner Mario Brigotti, who died in 1998 at age 99, was a friend of another Italian Clevelander, Mario Boiardi – a.k.a. Chef Boyardee.
If your visit to Cleveland is during the European soccer season, which is now underway, the best place to watch your club is probably The Old Angle Tavern, at 1848 West 25th Street in the Ohio City neighborhood, across the Cuyahoga, west of downtown. Red Line to West 25th-Ohio City.
As I said, Quicken Loans Arena, home of the Cavs, is next-door to Progressive Field. Originally known as Jacobs Field for the brothers who owned the Indians, it opened with the arena, as part of "The Gateway Project," in 1994. The Indians immediately went from 33 years without so much as a Pennant race to a run of Playoff contention that lasted from 1994 to 2001. Actually, it was the other way around: Richard Jacobs, his brother David having already died, and general manager John Hart had been making moves to build the team in the hopes that, by the time the ballpark opened, they'd be ready to take advantage of the more comfortable surroundings.
The Indians have won the American League Central Division title in 1995, '96, '97, '98, '99, 2001, '07, '16, '17 and '18. They reached the AL Championship Series in 1995, '97, '98, 2007, '16 and '17. They won the AL Pennant in 1995, '97 and 2016, but lost all 3 World Series, including 2016's at home in Game 7 -- to the Chicago Cubs.
Games 3, 4 and 5 of the 1997 World Series were 3 of the 4 coldest Series games ever measured, and aside from a Chicago game in 1906, Game 4 in 1997 is the only World Series game known to have had snow fall during play.
Still, the park can be viewed as more of a factor toward postseason play than part of any jinx over the team or the city. (They won 1 Pennant playing at League Park, 2 at Municipal Stadium, and are on the verge of a 3rd at the new park.)
Renamed Progressive Field in 2008, the naming rights bought by the Cleveland-based insurance company (with TV spokesgal Flo) -- once "The Jake," it's now "The Prog" -- the official address is 2401 Ontario Street.
The Browns' new stadium, now named First Energy Stadium, stands on the Cleveland Memorial Shoreway at West 3rd Street, across from Lakefront Station to the south. To the east are the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum and the Great Lakes Science Center – good museums, but expensive.
Formerly named simply Cleveland Browns Stadium, the new stadium was built on the site of Municipal Stadium, which was the Indians' part-time home from 1932 to 1946, and their full-time home from 1947 to 1993.
The stadium opened on July 3, 1931, with a Heavyweight Championship fight. Max Schmeling, quite popular in America before the rise of Nazism in his native Germany, delivered the only knockout of William "Young" Stribling's career.
An NFL team named the Indians played at the Stadium in its 1st season, 1931. The NFL's Rams played there from 1936 to 1945, winning the 1945 NFL Championship Game there, but moved to Los Angeles due to lousy attendance.
The Browns, founded with the All-America Football Conference in 1946 and moving into the NFL in 1950, played there until 1995, before being moved to Baltimore to become the Ravens and being reborn in 1999.
Built in 1999, FirstEnergy Stdium has hosted U.S. soccer games. The men's team won a friendly 2-0 over Venezuela on May 26, 2006; lost a friendly 4-2 to Belgium on May 29, 2013; and won a CONCACAF Gold Cup Group Stage game 3-0 over Nicaragua on July 15, 2017. The women's team has played and won 3 friendlies there: 4-0 over Germany on May 22, 2010; 2-0 over Japan on June 5, 2016; and 2-1 over China on June 12, 2018.
The Browns won the AAFC Championship in all 4 seasons of that league's existence, then won NFL Championships in 1950, 1954, 1955 and 1964. In fact, the Browns played in a league championship game every season they played, from their 1946 debut until 1955. The 1950 NFL Championship Game, won by a Lou Groza field goal in the last 30 seconds of a chilly Christmas Eve encounter over, ironically, the Rams, is regarded as one of the greatest games in pro football history, although the Rams got revenge in the 1951 title game in Los Angeles.
The Browns lost the 1952 Title Game at home to the Detroit Lions, lost to the Lions in Detroit in 1953, beat the Lions at home in 1954, and beat the Rams in Los Angeles in 1955. A new generation of Browns won the 1964 NFL Championship Game at home against the Baltimore Colts – though it's hard to argue that Baltimore taking the Browns in 1995 was revenge.
Still, that '64 Title remained the city's last World Championship until the 2016 Cavs. No city with at least 3 major league sports teams has ever waited longer. Most Clevelanders who watch college football are Ohio State University fans, even though Ohio Stadium is 145 miles away in Columbus, which is further from FirstEnergy Stadium than the Steelers' Heinz Field, 135 miles.
Still, while O-State has won many Big Ten titles and some National Championships over the years, including since 1964, they are a team for the entire State, not Cleveland-specific, and have played very few home-away-from-home games in Cleveland. And Cleveland State only restarted their football program in 2010. So while Cleveland is a great pro football city and a great high school football city, it is not a good college football city.
Municipal Stadium hosted a Beatles concert on August 14, 1966. The Beatles also played Cleveland's Public Auditorium on September 15, 1964. That building, which opened in 1922, not only still stands, it now hosts the annual Rock and Roll Hall of Fame induction ceremony. Elvis Presley sang there on November 6, 1971 and June 21, 1974.
Public Auditorium hosted the Republican Conventions of 1924 (nominating Calvin Coolidge) and 1936 (Alf Landon). It also hosted the only Presidential debate between Jimmy Carter and Ronald Reagan in 1980, when Carter mentioned asking his daughter Amy what issues mattered to kids, and she said the nuclear threat -- contrary to the Reagan mythmakers' story, he did not ask her for advice on said threat. But, at that debate, Reagan did break out the lines, "There you go again" and "Are you better off than you were four years ago?" 500 Lakeside Avenue East, a 6-block walk from Public Square and across from City Hall.
There were 2 different ballparks known as League Park, constructed at East 66th Street and Lexington Avenue on the city's East Side. The 1st was built in 1891, and was the home of the National League's Cleveland Spiders until 1899 and the American League team that became the Indians from 1901 to 1909. A 2nd park built there in 1910 was the Indians' home until 1946. A pro football team called the Cleveland Indians played there from 1916 to 1921.
League Park was also the home of the Cleveland Buckeyes, who played in the Negro Leagues from 1943 to 1950, and won the Negro World Series in 1945.
Unlike most parks of the pre-World War I era (or even before the 1960s), something remains of this park: The ticket office that stood in the right-field corner still stands. And there is a baseball field, a public park, on the site today.
This is a poverty-stricken neighborhood – it has never really recovered from the 1966 riot – so do not visit at night. The Number 3 bus will take you up Superior Avenue to 66th, and it's a 6-block walk. A bus called “The HealthLine,” which can be picked up on Euclid Avenue across from the Soldiers & Sailors Monument at Public Square, will take you up Euclid Avenue to 66th, and it's a 7-block walk.
There is a Baseball Heritage Museum, inside the 5th Street Arcades shopping center at 530 Euclid Avenue. It began as a private collection of Negro League memorabilia, and it grew to include stuff from the Indians and all kinds of baseball, including amateur, industrial/semi-pro, women's and international leagues.
The Cleveland Arena was home to one of the great minor-league hockey teams, the Cleveland Barons, from 1937 to 1974 and the World Hockey Association's Cleveland Crusaders from 1972 to 1974. It was home to the Cleveland Rebels in the 1st NBA season of 1946-47, and the Cavaliers from their 1970 debut until 1974.
It was here, on March 21, 1952, that local disc jockey Alan Freed hosted the Moondog Coronation Ball, which is often called the first rock and roll concert (which is why Cleveland is the home of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame). The place held about 10,000, but about twice that tried to get into Freed's show, launching him on a career that would take him to his pioneering job on New York's WINS and then WABC.
The Arena was demolished in 1977. The HealthLine bus will drop you off at 36th Street; but, again, this is an uneasy neighborhood, so be aware of your surroundings.
From 1974 to 1994, between the Cleveland Arena and the Gund/Quicken Loans Arena, the Cavs played at The Coliseum at Richfield, a.k.a. the Richfield Coliseum. This was also the home of the minor-league Barons in the 1974-75 and 1975-76 seasons, and the NHL version of the Barons (who had been the Gund-brothers owned Oakland Seals/California Golden Seals) in the 1976-77 and 1977-78 seasons, before money problems forced them to be merged with the Minnesota North Stars.
Many sports venues today are named for banks,
but the Coliseum looked like a bank.
Supposedly, seeing this fight on TV led Sylvester Stallone to create the character of Rocky Balboa. Wepner is still alive at age 79, and recently retired from running a liquor store in Carlstadt, Bergen County.
Like the Meadowlands Arena and the Nassau Coliseum, the Richfield Coliseum had two levels of seats and one level of concourse – and, when a full house of 20,000 showed up, this was a mess. The location was also bad, picked because it was halfway between downtown Cleveland and downtown Akron, but it didn't exactly help people of either city. When the Cavs moved out, its days were numbered, and it was demolished in 1999. The site is now a wildlife sanctuary. 2923 W. Streetsboro Road, and don’t expect to take public transportation: The closest bus, the 77F, drops you off almost 6 miles away.
Elvis actually gave concerts in Cleveland before becoming nationally famous. As I said, he played the Arena in 1956, but, before that, on February 26, 1955, nearly a year before "Heartbreak Hotel" hit the charts as his 1st national hit single, he did 2 shows at the Circle Theater, at 105th & Euclid. On October 19, 1955, he again played 2 shows at the venue. (It was built 1920, and demolished 1959 for the expansion of the Cleveland Clinic, hence the bus is called the "HealthLine," and this area is a bit safer.)
The next day, he did a matinee at Brooklyn High School (9200 Biddulph Road, Number 45 bus to Biddulph and walk a mile west) and an evening show at St. Michael's Hall (Mill Road & Wallings Road, 77F bus to Wallings, walk a mile west and a couple of blocks south on Mill).
Since the NHL version of the Barons folded, the closest NHL team has been the Pittsburgh Penguins, 134 miles away. But the Cleveland-Pittsburgh NFL rivalry spills over. Clevelanders would rather stick with their home State and root for the Columbus Blue Jackets (142 miles), or head up Interstate 90 for the Buffalo Sabres (193 miles), or go around Lake Erie and root for the Detroit Red Wings (167 miles, and the Ohio State-Michigan rivalry doesn't seem to come into play). Given its population, Cleveland would be the 18th-largest market in the NHL.
Cleveland's highest-ranked soccer team is Cleveland SC, which plays in the National Premier Soccer League, the 4th tier of American soccer. Their home field is the 5,416-seat Don Shula Stadium, formerly Wasmer Field, at John Carroll University, a Jesuit school in NCAA Division III, that nonetheless includes among its alumni Shula and All-Pro linebacker London Fletcher.
This made sense, which is why the nearest MLS team is the Columbus Crew, 138 miles away. If the Crew move to Austin, Texas for the 2019 season, as has been rumored, then the closest MLS team to Cleveland will be Toronto FC, 289 miles away.
There is a Cleveland Museum of Art, but it's way out on the East Side of the city, at 11150 East Boulevard at Wade Oval Drive, near the campus of Case Western Reserve University. It's a 15-minute walk from the Euclid-East 120th Street Station on the Red Line, or a 35-minute ride on the HealthLine bus.
Cleveland was home to a President, James Garfield, elected in 1880 but assassinated just a few months into his Presidency. Although he died near us, at his "Summer White House" in Long Branch, New Jersey, he was born in the Cleveland suburb of Orange (now Moreland Hills, and he was the last President to be born in a log cabin), and his home, Lawnfield, stands at 8095 Mentor Avenue in Mentor, northeast of the city. It takes 4 buses to get there: The 3, the 28, the R2 and the R1, but it is possible to get there without a car or an expensive taxi.
William McKinley, elected in 1896 and 1900, was from Canton, 60 miles away, and there are some historic sites there relating to him. We Yankee Fans also know Canton as the home town of Captain Thurman Munson. But most sports fans know it as the home of the Pro Football Hall of Fame, selected because it was the location of the NFL's founding meeting on September 17, 1920, at the Hupmobile showroom of Ralph Hay, also the owner of the Canton Bulldogs. The Frank T. Bow Federal Building is now on the site. 201 Cleveland Avenue SW.
The Hall of Fame itself is 3 miles to the northwest, at 2121 George Halas Drive NW, off Exit 107 on Interstate 77. Just to the south is Tom Benson Hall of Fame Stadium, named for the owner of the New Orleans Saints, who made a big donation to renovate the Hall and the adjoining Fawcett Stadium, which was renamed for him. Originally built in in 1938 for McKinley High School, just to the south, it replaced the old 8,000-seat League Field. It now seats 22,375, and annually hosts the NFL's exhibition season-opening Hall of Fame Game.
The Canton Bulldogs played at League Field from 1905 to 1926, winning Ohio League titles in 1915, 1916, 1917 and 1919, and NFL Championships in 1922 (10-0-2), 1923 (11-0-1) and 1924 (7-1-1 -- that's 28-1-4 in 3 seasons). They featured eventual Pro Football Hall-of-Famers Jim Thorpe, Joe Guyon, Guy Chamberlin, Pete Henry, Link Lyman and Greasy Neale, though not all at the same time.
But starpower meant big salaries, and their owners couldn't afford them. After the 1926 season, the NFL cast off several weaker franchise, and the Bulldogs were among them. Thus passed the 1st great professional football team.
The Akron-Canton Regional Airport, where Thurman Munson died on August 2, 1979, is at 5400 Lauby Road in North Canton. He is laid to rest at Sunset Hills Burial Park and Memory Gardens, 5001 Everhard Road NW. Thurman Munson Memorial Stadium is a 5,700-seat minor-league ballpark at 2501 Allen Avenue SE. It was built in 1989, before Camden Yards in Baltimore revolutionized ballpark construction in both the majors and the minors, so it is an all-aluminum stadium, and the Canton-Akron Indians left after the 1996 season to become the Akron Aeros.
It is possible to get from Cleveland to Canton via public transportation, via GoBus, but it takes 2 hours and 20 minutes. Each way.
Akron is about 40 miles south of Cleveland on I-77, a little more than halfway to Canton. There is a Bus C that goes there, taking a little under an hour and costing $10, each way. Since 1997, the Double-A Eastern League team known as the Akron Aeros, and now the Akron RubberDucks (1 word), has played at Canal Park, 300 S. Main Street at Exchange Street.
The 1st NFL Champions were the Akron Pros, in 1920. Their coach was also their best player, two-way back Frederick Douglass "Fritz" Pollard -- the 1st black head coach in any major league sport. (Well, sort of: He was, unquestionably, the head coach; it's the NFL's status as "major league" up until 1933 or so, or even until after World War II, that's questionable.) Another great black football player of the era, the 1917 and '18 All-America end at Rutgers and later actor and singer Paul Robeson, played for them in the 1921 season. (He also played for the Milwaukee Badgers in 1922.)
The Pros played under various names, in various leagues, from 1908 to 1926, but financial problems made them part of the NFL's post-1926 purge, and they folded. They played at League Park, at the southeast corner of Carroll and Beaver Streets, a mile and a half east of downtown. The area is industrial now.
The University of Akron Zips play football at InfoCision Stadium, built in 2009 and seating 27,881. 300 Vine Street. It replaced the 35,000-seat Rubber Bowl (Akron is home to the Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company and its iconic blimps), which stood from 1940 until this year, at 800 George Washington Blvd.
UPDATE: On November 19, 2018, Moneywise compiled a list of their Worst College Football Stadiums, the bottom 19 percent of college football, 25 out of 129. InfoCision Stadium came in 14th, apparently due to a serious lack of atmosphere.
Kent State University is in Kent, about 40 miles southeast of Cleveland. Yankee Legend Thurman Munson was a student there before signing with the Yankees, and was a baseball teammate there of Steve Stone, 1980 American League Cy Young Award winner with the Baltimore Orioles and a Chicago Cubs broadcaster. The Kent State Golden Flashes play at 25,319-seat Dix Stadium, which opened in 1969. 2213 Summit Street.
Of course, Kent State is best known for the events of May 4, 1970, when a demonstration against the Vietnam War led to the Ohio National Guard firing on the protesters, wounding 13 people, 4 of whom died. The fallen fell at what is now Parking Lot R-3. The May 4 Visitors Center is across from the site. 300 Midway Drive. Hard to reach by public transit: The best way is Greyhound to Akron and then Bus 90 to the Student Center.
The best-known Kent State students are comedians, who may have helped people there deal with the trauma: Arsenio Hall in the mid-1970s, and Drew Carey, who left in 1981 and enlisted in the Marine Corps Reserve.
Also associated with Ohio are Presidents William Henry Harrison, Ulysses S. Grant, Benjamin Harrison and William Howard Taft, but they were from the Cincinnati side; Rutherford B. Hayes, whose hometown of Fremont was closer to Toledo; and Warren G. Harding, whose birthplace of Blooming Grove and adult hometown of Marion are closer to Columbus.
The Armstrong Air & Space Museum was built to honor Neil Armstrong, the 1st man to walk on the Moon, in his hometown of Wapakoneta, Ohio. The building is, naturally, shaped like a crescent moon. 500 Apollo Drive, 185 miles southwest of Cleveland, 93 miles southwest of Toledo, and 88 miles northwest of Columbus.
If you're a fan of The Drew Carey Show, and you remember the cast's hangout, the Warsaw Tavern, you should know that there is a real-life bar with that name, in Brooklyn (a separate city) south of downtown, on West 22nd Street at Calgary Avenue. Take the Number 35 bus.
Aside from The Drew Carey Show, the biggest TV show filmed in the Forest City has been Hot In Cleveland. 3rd Rock from the Sun was set at Pendleton State University in fictional Rutherford, said to be 52 miles from Cleveland, a distance suggesting that the school was probably based on Kent State University.
The Fernwood franchise -- Mary Hartman, Mary Hartman and its spinoffs, Forever Fernwood and Fernwood 2 Night, running on from 1976 to 1978, was set in a city named Fernwood, which is the name of a real town in eastern Ohio, but hardly big enough to match the shows' setting. It was probably based on Cleveland, hometown of Martin Mull, who played twin brothers Garth and Barth Gimble on the shows.
The House from the film A Christmas Story, in which Cleveland stands in for Chicago and author Jean Shepherd's hometown of Hammond, Indiana, is at 3159 W. 11th Street at Rowley Avenue, and was restored by a fan to its exact appearance in the movie, made in 1983 but set around 1939 or so. Take the Number 81 bus. The Higbee's store was also real, but was most likely based on Chicago's real-life Marshall Field's chain. Higbee's still stands on Public Square, and the sign visible in the movie is still there, but the store closed years ago, and is now home to the Cleveland Convention & Visitors Bureau and Horseshoe Casino Cleveland.
Toledo is 115 miles west of Cleveland, where the Maumee River flows into Lake Erie. Megabus can get you there in 2½ hours. In fact, it's closer to Detroit: 60 miles. For this reason, their Triple-A baseball team, the Toledo Mud Hens, has been a farm club of the Detroit Tigers for much of their history, including continuously since 1987.
What's a "mud hen"? It's a bird that flocked near Bay View Park, where the team played from 1886 to 1896. It's also known as an American coot. The team left the next season, but the name stuck. The stadium remained in place, and was used as the site of the Heavyweight Championship fight of July 4, 1919, when Jack Dempsey won the title by destroying Jess Willard. It's all parkland now, except for the clubhouse of the Bay View Yacht Club. 3900 Summit Street, 3½ miles northeast of downtown.
Originally known as the Toledo Blue Stockings, they played at League Park from 1883 to 1885, before moving to Bay View Park. It was here, in the 1884 season, that they fielded catcher Moses Fleetwood "Fleet" Walker and his brother, outfielder Weldy Wilbeforce "Welday" Walker, the 1st 2 black players in what we would now call Major League Baseball, but were forced by the baseball establishment to let them go.
The Taylor Body Shop is now on the site of this important, but shunted-aside, piece of baseball history. 1400 Monroe Street, just west of downtown.
The Mud Hens moved to Armory Park, playing there from 1897 to 1909. This was the home of an early pro football team, the Toledo Maroons, from 1902 onward. In 1922, they entered the NFL, but it became too expensive for them, and they folded after the 1923 season. Armory Park was demolished in 1934, and the site is now part of the Civic Center Mall, on Jackson Street between Spielbusch Avenue and Erie Street.
Swayne Field opened in 1909, and was the home of the Mud Hens until 1955. This stadium, eventually reaching 14,800 seats after a 1928 expansion, would have been "home" to the M*A*S*H
character Max Klinger, played by Toledo native Jamie Farr, who made the Hens' jersey and block-T cap nationally famous. For this reason, the modern version of the team retired Number 1, which Klinger wore, for Farr.
character Max Klinger, played by Toledo native Jamie Farr, who made the Hens' jersey and block-T cap nationally famous. For this reason, the modern version of the team retired Number 1, which Klinger wore, for Farr.
In 1927, they won their 1st Pennant at Swayne Field. But they were never prosperous, and in 1955, they moved, and the ballpark was soon demolished. A shopping center, including a McDonald's, is on the site now. 3000 Monroe Street, at Detroit Avenue (U.S. Route 24), 2 miles west of downtown, and a mile and a half's walk down Monroe from the site of League Park.
The team was revived in 1965, when the 10,197-seat Lucas County Stadium opened, thanks to the efforts of County Commissioner Ned Skeldon. They won the Pennant in 1968. In 1988, when it was learned Skeldon was dying, the County government renamed the stadium for him. He lived long enough to see it, dying 3 months later.
Ned Skeldon Stadium remains a home for amateur baseball, as part of the Lucas County Recreation Center. 2901 Key Street in suburban Maumee, 8 miles southwest of downtown.
In 2002, the Mud Hens moved back downtown, to the 10,300-seat Fifth Third Field, named for an Ohio-based bank (which also holds naming rights to Dayton's ballpark and the University of Cincinnati's arena). They won Pennants there in 2005 and 2006. 406 Washington Street at Huron Street, downtown.
And while Adam's Ribs, the Chicago barbecue joint mentioned in one of the better M*A*S*H
episodes, isn't real (though many places with the name have popped up since that 1974 episode), Klinger's beloved sausage emporium, Tony Packo's Café, is absolutely real. The original is at 1902 Front Street at Consaul Street, 2 miles across the river from downtown, and they have another across from the ballpark at 7 S. Superior Street.
Elvis sang at the 5,230-seat Toledo Sports Arena on November 22, 1956, and at the University of Toledo's 8,300-seat John F. Savage Arena on April 23, 1977. The old Sports Arena stood at 1 Main Street at Riverside Drive, a mile across the river from downtown, from 1947 to 2007, hosting concerts and minor-league hockey. It was replaced by the 5,000-seat Huntington Center, at 500 Jefferson Avenue at Huron Street, downtown. It is home to minor-league hockey's Toledo Walleyes. The Savage Arena is at 2025 Douglas Road, on campus, 4 miles west of downtown.
Bowling Green State University, of the Mid-American Conference, is 112 miles west of Public Square, and 22 miles south of downtown Toledo. They won hockey's National Championship in 1984. The 5,000-seat Slater Family Ice Arena is at 417 N. Mercer Road.
The 24,000-seat Doyt Perry Stadium, built in 1966 and named for their former football coach, who from 1955 to 1964 won 5 of the school's 12 MAC Championships, is next-door, at Stadium Drive & Alumni Drive.
Cleveland likes to call itself "America's North Coast," but, in spite of its infamous Winter, it does have beach resorts. Headlands Beach State Park attracts 2 million visitors a year from America and Canada (presumably, mostly from nearby Ontario). 9601 Headlands Rd., in Mentor, 29 miles northeast of Public Square. Unreachable by public transit.
And there's a beach at Cedar Point, the lakeshore town that also includes an amusement park that serves as Ohio's answer to Great Adventure. (However, Six Flags has nothing to do with this park.) They call themselves the Roller Coaster Capital of the World. Cedar Point Road, in Sandusky. 61 miles east of Public Square. Again, no public transit, but Sandusky can be reached by Greyhound.
Bowling Green State University, of the Mid-American Conference, is 112 miles west of Public Square, and 22 miles south of downtown Toledo. They won hockey's National Championship in 1984. The 5,000-seat Slater Family Ice Arena is at 417 N. Mercer Road.
The 24,000-seat Doyt Perry Stadium, built in 1966 and named for their former football coach, who from 1955 to 1964 won 5 of the school's 12 MAC Championships, is next-door, at Stadium Drive & Alumni Drive.
Cleveland likes to call itself "America's North Coast," but, in spite of its infamous Winter, it does have beach resorts. Headlands Beach State Park attracts 2 million visitors a year from America and Canada (presumably, mostly from nearby Ontario). 9601 Headlands Rd., in Mentor, 29 miles northeast of Public Square. Unreachable by public transit.
And there's a beach at Cedar Point, the lakeshore town that also includes an amusement park that serves as Ohio's answer to Great Adventure. (However, Six Flags has nothing to do with this park.) They call themselves the Roller Coaster Capital of the World. Cedar Point Road, in Sandusky. 61 miles east of Public Square. Again, no public transit, but Sandusky can be reached by Greyhound.
A visit to Cleveland can be a fun experience. These people love basketball. Their city should be able to show you a good time. Again, don't mention that The Boss was a Clevelander. And, for your own sake, don't mention the name of Art Modell.
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