Thursday, December 2, 2021

How to Be a New York Basketball Fan In Dallas -- 2021-22 Edition

"I'm in hell!" – Morgan Freeman
"Worse: You're in Texas!" – Chris Rock
-- Nurse Betty

The Brooklyn Nets on this coming Tuesday night, December 7, and the New York Knicks March 9, will travel to face the Dallas Mavericks, in what Texas native Molly Ivins – frequently sarcastically – called The Great State.

An example of her writing: "In the Great State, you can get 5 years for murder, and 99 for pot possession." (I once sent the late, great newspaper columnist an e-mail asking if it could be knocked down to 98 years if you didn't inhale. Sadly, she never responded.)

If there is one thing that fans of 31 out of the 32 NFL teams can agree on, it's that they hate the Cowboys. Or, as is said from New York to San Francisco, from Seattle to Miami, and especially in Philadelphia and Washington, "Dallas Sucks!"

That hatred is considerably reduced in basketball. Aside from fans of the other Texas teams, the Houston Rockets and San Antonio Spurs, and possibly the Oklahoma City Thunder, I don't think anybody particularly hates the Mavericks. Their owner, Mark Cuban, maybe... although, in my book, he's the best thing about Dallas, because he angers people who deserve to be made angry.

Before You Go. It's not just The South, it's Texas. When it comes to COVID, only Florida has been as remotely as stupid. If you're worried about COVID, don't go. If you do go, wear your mask. If anyone gives you a hard time, ignore them. They're the idiots, not you. But don't tell them that.

It's not just The South, it's Texas. This is the State that elected George W. Bush, Rick Perry, Greg Abbott and Bill Clements Governor; Dick Armey, Tom DeLay, Ron Paul and Louie Gohmert to the House of Representatives; and Phil Gramm and Ted Cruz to the Senate -- and thinks the rest of the country isn't conservative enough. This is the State where, in political terms, somebody like Long Island's conservative Congressman Peter King is considered a sissy. This is a State that thinks that poor nonwhites don't matter at all, and that poor whites only matter if you can convince them that, no matter how bad their life is, they're still better than the (slur on blacks) and the (slur on Hispanics).

So if you go to Dallas for this game, it would be best to avoid political discussions. And, for crying out loud, don't mention that, now over half a century ago, a liberal Democratic President was killed in Dallas. They might say JFK had it comin' 'cause he was a (N-word)-lovin' Communist. (Some people have included Clint Murchison, father of Clint Murchison Jr., the Cowboys' original owner, in the conspiracy theories, due to JFK's interest in eliminating a tax break known as the oil-depletion allowance.)

No. I'm not kidding.  I've never been to Texas, but I've seen enough Texans elsewhere, in actual meetings and on TV, to know that there are some of them who think like this -- and, among their own people, they will be less likely to hold back. So don't ask them what they think. About anything.

At any rate, before we go any further, enjoy Lewis Black's R-rated smackdown of Rick Perry and the State of Texas as a whole.

At least you'll be going in December, so you won't have to deal with the usual Texas heat and humidity. Still, before you go, check the websites of the Dallas Morning News and the Fort Worth Star-Telegram (the "Startle-gram") for the weather. Right now, they're talking about it being in the low 60s during daylight on Tuesday, but dropping to the mid-40s by gametime. You may need to bring a jacket, but not a Winter jacket.

Texas is in the Central Time Zone, 1 hour behind New York. (The exception is the southwestern corner, including El Paso, which borders New Mexico, so it's in the Mountain Time Zone.) Adjust your timepieces accordingly.

Despite Texas' seeming foreignness (and that's before you factor in the Mexican-American influence, which improves things) and its embrace of its treasonous Confederate past, you don't need a passport to visit, and you don't need to change their money.

Tickets. The Mavericks were averaging 19,925 fans per home game last season, a sellout, before COVID shut everything down. Getting tickets will be tough.

In the Lower Level, the 100 sections, seats are $195 between the baskets and $73 behind them. In the Platinum Level, the 200 sections, they're $175 between and $110 behind. In the Upper Level, the 300 sections, they're far from the action, but a bargain: $60 between and just $35 behind.

Getting There. It is 1,551 miles from Midtown Manhattan to downtown Dallas. So unless you want to be cooped up for 24-30 hours, you... are... flying.

A round-trip flight from Newark to Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport is cheaper than I've ever seen it: It could be under $150. There is Orange Line rail service from the airport to Dallas' Union Station, but it will take about an hour and a half.

Amtrak offers the Lake Shore Limited (a variation on the old New York Central Railroad's 20th Century Limited), leaving Penn Station at 3:40 PM Eastern Time and arriving at Chicago's Union Station at 9:50 AM Central Time. Then switch to the Texas Eagle at 1:45 PM, and arrive at Dallas' Union Station (400 S. Houston Street at Wood Street) the following morning at 11:30. It would be $482 round-trip.
Dallas' Union Station

ALERT: It would be, but the Lake Shore Limited for the days in question is already sold out. So you can't do Amtrak this time.

As with American Airlines, Dallas is actually Greyhound's hometown, or at least the location of its corporate headquarters: 205 S. Lamar Street at Commerce Street, which is also the address of their Dallas station. If you look at Greyhound buses, you'll notice they all have Texas license plates. So, how bad can the bus be?

Well, it's $670 round-trip, and advanced purchase can get it down to $458. But it won't be much shorter: It's a 38-hour trip, and you'll have to change buses at least twice, in Richmond, Virginia (and I don't like the Richmond station) and either Atlanta or Memphis.

Oh... kay. So what about driving? As I said, over 1,500 miles. I would definitely recommend bringing a friend and sharing the driving. The fastest way from New York to Dallas is to get into New Jersey, take Interstate 78 West across the State and into Pennsylvania, then turn to Interstate 81 South, across Pennsylvania, the "panhandles" of Maryland and West Virginia, and across the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia into Tennessee, where I-81 will flow into Interstate 40. Take I-40 into Arkansas, and switch to Interstate 30 in Little Rock, taking it into the Dallas-Fort Worth metropolitan area, a.k.a. "The Metroplex." Between the forks of Interstate 35, I-30 is named the Tom Landry Freeway, after the legendary Cowboys coach.

Once you get across the Hudson River into New Jersey, you should be in New Jersey for about an hour, Pennsylvania for 3 hours, Maryland for 15 minutes, West Virginia for half an hour, Virginia for 5 and a half hours (more than the entire trip will be before you get to Virginia), 8 hours and 15 minutes in Tennessee, 3 hours in Arkansas, and about 3 hours and 45 minutes in Texas.

Taking 45-minute rest stops in or around (my recommendations) Harrisburg, Pennsylvania; Charlottesville, Virginia; Bristol, on the Virginia/Tennessee State Line; Nashville and Memphis, Tennessee; Little Rock and Texarkana, Arkansas; and accounting for overruns there and for traffic at each end of the journey, and we're talking 31 hours. So, leaving New York at around 7:00 Eastern Time on Saturday morning, you should be able to reach the Metroplex at around 1:00 Central Time on Sunday afternoon, giving you 2 hours before kickoff.

But it would be better to leave on Friday afternoon, reach the area on Saturday night, and get a hotel. Fortunately, AT&T Stadium is in Arlington, midway between the downtowns of Dallas and Fort Worth. Well before either the Rangers or the Cowboys set up shop in Arlington, Six Flags Over Texas did so, as the original theme park in the Six Flags chain (opening in 1961), and so there are plenty of hotels available nearby. They're also likely to be cheaper than the ones in downtown Dallas.

Once In the City. Texas declared its independence from Mexico on March 2, 1836; was admitted to the Union as the 28th State on December 29, 1845; became the 7th State to secede from the Union, on February 1, 1861; and the 10th former Confederate State to be readmitted, on March 30, 1870.

Dallas (population about 1.3 million, founded in 1856) was named after George Mifflin Dallas, a Mayor of Philadelphia and Senator from Pennsylvania who was James K. Polk's Vice President (1845-49). Fort Worth (about 920,000, founded in 1849) was named for William Jenkins Worth, a General in the War of 1812 and the Mexican-American War.

The population of the entire Metroplex is about 7.6 million and climbing, although when you throw in Oklahoma, southern Arkansas and northern Louisiana, the total population of the Cowboys' "market" is about 19 million -- a little less than the New York Tri-State Area, and soon it will surpass us.

Dallas proper is about 42 percent Hispanic, 28 percent white, 24 percent black, and 3 percent Asian. South Dallas is mostly black, while North Dallas is mostly white. The northern suburbs are rich, and so conservative, they make New Jersey Republicans look like Socialists.

Dallas has been spared major racial incidents. But there were race riots in North Texas in Slocum in 1910, and in Longview in 1919.

Commerce Street divides Dallas street addresses into North and South. Beckley Avenue, across the Trinity River from downtown, appears to divide them into East and West. The sales tax in the State of Texas is 6.25 percent, in Dallas County 8.25 percent, and in Tarrant County (including Arlington and Fort Worth) 8 percent even.

ZIP Codes for the Dallas side of the Metroplex start with the digits 75; and for the Fort Worth side, 76. The Area Codes are 214, 469, 940 and 972 for Dallas; and 817 for Fort Worth and Arlington.

Dallas Area Rapid Transit (DART) runs buses and light rail trains. A 2-hour pass costs $2.50, and a day pass is $5.00 local and $10.00 regional (if you want to go beyond Dallas to Arlington or Fort Worth).
Green Line train just outside downtown

Dallas' beltway is named for 2 Presidents: Interstate 635, to the north, is the Lyndon B. Johnson Freeway; while Interstate 20, to the south, is the Ronald Reagan Memorial Highway. I-20, along with Interstate 820, the Jim Wright Freeway (named for the local Congressman who was an ally of LBJ's, an enemy of Reagan's, and Speaker of the House from 1987 to 1989), is Fort Worth's beltway. And, as I said, I-30, the Tom Landry Freeway, connects the 2 cities and goes through Arlington.

Going In. The NBA's Dallas Mavericks and the NHL's Dallas Stars play at the American Airlines Center, or the AAC. Not to be confused with the American Airlines Arena in Miami (which was really confusing when the Mavs played the Heat in the 2006 and 2011 NBA Finals), it looks like a cross between a rodeo barn and an airplane hangar. It is 1 of 10 arenas that is currently home to both an NBA team and an NHL team.
The address is 2500 Victory Avenue, in the Victory Park neighborhood, 2 miles north of downtown, at the corner of Houston & Olive Streets. Bus 052 or Green Line to Victory station. If you drive in, parking can be had for as little as $5.00.

Since you're most likely to arrive from downtown, by either car or train, you're likely to enter from the south. The court runs northwest-to-southeast.
The arena opened in 2001, and has also been the Metroplex's major concert and pro wrestling center. It's also hosted the Big 12 Conference basketball tournament. Its 1st event was a concert by The Eagles -- appropriate, since American Airlines uses an eagle in its logo, and also because there was once a minor-league baseball team called the Dallas Eagles.

Food. Going along with the "Everything is big in Texas" idea, you would think that the Mavericks' arena would have lots of concession stands and big portions. You would also think they would rely heavily on Southwest and Tex-Mex food. They don't disappoint in those regards.

Going with the Southwest/Tex-Mex theme, they have stands labeled Grill Zone, High Steaks (a play on "high stakes" gambling), Stampede Station, Taco Bueno. There's a basketball-themed stand called Fast Break and a hockey-themed stand called Center Ice. They have a Pizza Hut, and as far as I know they have the only venue in North American major league sports with a 7-Eleven. As for locations within the arena, click this link.

Team History Displays. The Mavericks were founded in 1980, meaning that I can remember a time before they existed. Nevertheless, they have some history. Since the mid-1980s, they have been a Playoff contender more often than not, despite a horrible 1992-93 season in which they went 11-71, and flirted with the 1973 Philadelphia 76ers' record-worst 9-73.

They've won Division titles in 1987, 2007, 2010 and 2021. They've won the Western Conference title twice, in 2006 and 2011. Both times, they faced the Miami Heat in the NBA Finals, losing in 2006 but winning in 2011.
The Mavericks have retired 3 numbers, both from guards who played for them in their earliest days: 12 for Derek Harper, 15 for Brad Davis, and 22 for Rolando Blackman. Dirk Nowitzki's 41 will be retired on January 5, 2022. Jason Kidd's 5 and Steve Nash's 13 could also be added.
Team owner Mark Cuban also announced that, while it wouldn't be retired, Number 24 would never be issued again, in memory of Kobe Bryant. Funny, he hasn't done it for Bill Russell's 6, Wilt Chamberlain's 13, Kareem Abdul-Jabbar's 33, Magic Johnson's 32 or Michael Jordan's 23.

No man who played for the Mavericks was named to the NBA's 50th Anniversary 50 Greatest Players in 1996, although Don Nelson, who was soon to be named their head coach, was named to the 10 Greatest Coaches. Kidd, Nash and Nowitzki were named to the NBA's 75th Anniversary 75 Greatest Players in 2021.

Along with Nelson, 5 men who've played for the Mavericks have been elected to the Basketball Hall of Fame. Kidd and Nash were both elected in 2018. Adrian Dantley, Alex English and Dennis Rodman played for them briefly near the ends of their careers. Almost certainly, Nowitzki will join them. Nash is the only basketball player yet elected to Canada's Walk of Fame.

The Mavericks trail their "I-45 Rivalry" with the Houston Rockets, 106-97. They trail the San Antonio Spurs 134-89. But they've won 2 out of their 3 Playoff series with Houston, and 4 out of 7 with San Antonio.

Stuff. The AAC (American Airlines Center) Fan Shops can be found in Sections 100 and 103, on the Plaza concourse. A larger store, The Hangar, is on the south plaza of the arena. These stores may sell Western wear (actual "cowboy" clothing, including oversized Cowboy hats) with team logos in it.

You don't usually think of Dallas having much of a literary tradition -- or of Texans being functionally literate -- but there are a few books about the Mavericks. The sports staff of The Dallas Morning News put together the 2011 title tribute The Will To Win. Rob Mahoney wrote Mavericks Stampede: Dirk Leads Dallas to the 2011 NBA ChampionshipIn 2014, Bill Redban wrote Nowitzki's entry in the NBA's The Inspirational Story of Basketball Superstar... series.

Team owner Mark Cuban wrote How to Win at the Sport of Business: If I Can Do It, You Can Do It. And Sean Huff wrote the biography Mark Cuban: The Maverick BillionaireHe's so much of a "maverick" that the baseball establishment has stepped in to stop buying a team. He's already tried and failed to buy the Chicago Cubs and his hometown Pittsburgh Pirates. It's not that he doesn't have enough money: He certainly does. It's not that he wouldn't make even more money, for himself and the league, as an owner: He almost certainly would. It's not that he'd be unwilling to promote the sport: He would be. It's that he's not one of them, and never will be.

(This is also why they won't let Hall-of-Famer Reggie Jackson lead a group to buy a team: His group has already tried and failed to buy 2 of the teams for whom he's played, the Oakland Athletics and the Los Angeles Angels.)

The NBA put out an official DVD retrospective of the 2011 Finals, which the Mavericks won for, so far, their only title.

During the Game. A November 13, 2014 article on DailyRotoHelp ranked the NBA teams' fan bases, and listed the Mavericks' fans at 8th, citing Cuban's commitment to keeping the team competitive, and being a fan draw himself, thus keeping them coming in. Taking into account the bandwagon factor that still infects Cowboys fandom, and Texans' natural affinity for football, the Mavs may be the most popular sports team within the Metroplex.

Dallas Mavericks fans don't like the Houston Rockets, or the San Antonio Spurs, or the Phoenix Suns, or the Oklahoma City Thunder, or the fans of any of those. They may not like New Yorkers, but they don't have any specific problems with Knicks or Nets fans. Wearing your team's gear probably won't get you in trouble.

And, this being a sports arena, you're gonna get searched, and so is everyone else, so Texas' infamously lenient gun laws will be rendered useless. You're not going to get shot. Even JFK and J.R. Ewing wouldn't have gotten shot at the American Airlines Center.

Neither of these games will be promotions. The Mavericks hold auditions for singing the National Anthem, rather than having a regular singer. The group Bamface recorded a theme song for them, "Finishing What They Started." Unfortunately, their fans have no chant more interesting than, "Let's go, Mavs!"

The Mavericks have 2 mascots: A blue horse named Champ -- a maverick can be definied as "an unorthodox or independent-minded person," but also as "an unbranded calf (cow) or yearling (horse)" -- and Mavs Man, who appears to be a man made out of basketballs.
Champ and Mavs Man

After the Game. Dallas has a bit of a bad reputation when it comes to crime, but you'll be pretty far from it. The Victory Park area, including the arena, is well-protected. As long as you don't make any snide remarks about the Mavericks or any liberal political pronouncements, safety will not be an issue.

The only bars I could find that have been mentioned as catering to New Yorkers are Buffalo Joe's at 3636 Frankford Road, home of the local Giants fan club, about halfway between the stadium and downtown Dallas; and Binions Ice House, home of Metroplex Jets fans,  at 205 N. West Street, in Arlington, a mile and a half southwest of the Cowboys' stadium and 2 miles southwest of the Texas Rangers' new stadium.

If, on a visit to Dallas, you want to watch your favorite European soccer team, your best bet is The Londoner, 14930 Midway Road, Addison, 14 miles north of downtown. From Union Station, DART Red Line to Forest Lane Station, then transfer to Bus 488.

Sidelights. On November 30, 2018, Thrillist published a list of "America's 25 Most Fun Cities," and Dallas came in 14th. Despite their new rapid-rail system, Dallas is almost entirely a car-friendly, everything-else-unfriendly city. Actually, it's not that friendly at all. It's a city for oil companies, for banks, for insurance companies, things normal Americans tend to hate. Despite its reputation for far-right political craziness, Texas still prides itself on its hospitality to visitors; and, as one Houston native once put it, "Dallas is not in Texas."

In fact, most Texans, especially people from Fort Worth (and, to a slightly lesser extent, those from Houston) seem to think of Dallas the way the rest of America thinks of New York: They hate it, and they think that it represents all that is bad about their homeland. Until, that is, they need a win. Or money.

Before the AAC opened in 2001, the Mavericks and Stars both played at the Reunion Arena. This building hosted the 1984 Republican Convention, where Ronald Reagan was nominated for a 2nd term as President. To New York Tri-State Area fans, it is probably best remembered as the place where Jason Arnott's double-overtime goal won Game 6 and gave the New Jersey Devils the 2000 Stanley Cup over the defending Champion Stars. The 1986 NCAA Final Four, won by Louisville over Duke, was held there.
It was demolished in November 2009, 5 months before Texas Stadium was imploded. The arena didn't even get to celebrate a 30th Anniversary. 777 Sports Street at Houston Viaduct, downtown, a 10-minute walk from Union Station.

The Major League Soccer club FC Dallas (formerly the Dallas Burn) play at Toyota Stadium, at 9200 World Cup Way in the suburb of Frisco. It's 28 miles up the Dallas North Tollway from downtown, so forget about any way of getting there except driving. The U.S. soccer team has played there 4 times, notching a win and a loss against Guatemala, and wins over Honduras and Ecuador.

Toyota Stadium hosted the knockout round of the CONCACAF Women's Championship in October 2018. The Semifinals were held on the 14th, America beat Jamaica 6-0, and Canada beat Panama 7-0. On the 17th, Jamaica beat Panama 4-2 on penalty kicks after a 2-2 3rd place game, and America beat Canada 2-0 in the Final. It also hosted 4 games of the 2021 CONCACAF Gold Cup. The National Soccer Hall of Fame is on the site.

The Dallas Sportatorium was built in 1935 to host professional wrestling, burned down in 1953 (legend has it that it was arson by a rival promoter), was rebuilt as a 4,500-seat venue, and continued to host wrestling even as it was replaced by larger arenas and fell into a rat-infested, crumbling decline, before a 2001 fire (this one was likely the result of the neglect, rather than arson) finally led to its 2003 demolition. Elvis Presley sang there early in his career, on April 16, May 29, June 18 and September 3, 1955. The site is now vacant. 1000 S. Industrial Blvd. at Cadiz Street, just south of downtown.

The Dallas Memorial Auditorium opened in 1957, and hosted some Chaparrals games. The Beatles played there on September 18, 1964. Elvis sang there on November 13, 1971; June 6, 1975; and December 28, 1976. It is now part of the Kay Bailey Hutchison Convention Center, named for Texas' 1st female U.S. Senator. 650 S. Griffin Street, downtown.

Early in his career, Elvis sang at the Round Cup Club on April 16 and September 3, 1955. Unfortunately, the only listing I can find for a place in Dallas with that name now is a gay bar. I will bet you the amount of Elvis' fee in 1955 that this is not the same place.

Elvis also sang in Fort Worth, at the North Side Coliseum on May 29, 1955; and on January 20 and April 20, 1956. 123 E. Exchange Avenue, 3 miles northwest of downtown on Bus 1. He also sang at the Tarrant County Convention Center, now the Fort Worth Convention Center, on June 18, 1972; June 15 and 16, 1974; and June 3 and July 3, 1976. 1201 Houston Street. A short walk from the Fort Worth Intermodal Transportation Center.

About 19 miles west of downtown Dallas, and 15 miles east of downtown Fort Worth, in Arlington, in Tarrant County, are the new homes of the Texas Rangers and the Dallas Cowboys.

Choctaw Stadium (formerly known as The Ballpark In Arlington, AmeriQuest Field, Rangers Ballpark and Globe Life Park) is at 1000 Ballpark Way, off Exit 29 on the Landry Freeway. It sits right between Six Flags and AT&T Stadium.

Globe Life Field opened for the 2020 baseball season, across Randol Mill Road to the south of the preceding ballpark. 

Across Legends Way from Choctaw Stadium is a parking lot where the original home of the Rangers, Arlington Stadium, stood from 1965 to 1993. It was a minor-league park called Turnpike Stadium before the announcement of the move of the team led to its expansion for the 1972 season. AT&T Stadium, the new home of the Cowboys, is at 1 AT&T Way. The 2 stadiums are 7/10ths of a mile apart.

Public transportation is a relatively new idea in Texas. While Dallas has built a subway and light rail system, and it has a bus service (get a Day Pass for $5.00), until recently, Arlington was the largest city in the country with no public transportation at all.

If you got a hotel near the various Arlington attractions, you're in luck: The Arlington Entertainment District Trolley goes to the area hotels and to the stadiums and theme parks. But if your hotel is in Dallas, you'll have to take Trinity Rail Express (TRE) to Centerport Station, and then transfer to bus 221, and take that to Collins & Andrew Streets. And even then, you'd have to walk over a mile down Collins to get to the stadium. The whole thing is listed as taking an hour and 50 minutes.

But at least it's now possible to get from Dallas to a Cowboy game and back without spending $50 on taxis. So how much is it? From Union Station to Centerport, each way, is $2.50. I don't know what the zones are for the bus, but a Day Pass is $5.00, meaning that getting there and back could top out at $10, which is reasonable considering the distance involved.

Originally named Cowboys Stadium, but nicknamed the Palace In Dallas, the Death Star, Jerry World and Jerr-assic Park, It has now hosted a Super Bowl (XLV, Green Bay over Pittsburgh), a College Football National Championship Game (2014-15, Ohio State over Oregon), an NCAA Final Four (in 2014, Connecticut over Kentucky), some major prizefights and concerts (including Texas native George Strait opening the stadium with Reba McIntire, and recently holding the final show of his "farewell tour" there), and, as mentioned, the 2010 NBA All-Star Game. (UPDATE: It will host the Final Four again in 2030.)

It hosts several special college football games: The annual Cotton Bowl Classic, the annual Cowboys Classic, the annual Arkansas-Texas A&M game, the Big 12 Championship, and, on January 12, 2015, it hosted the 1st National Championship game in college football's playoff era: Ohio State 42, Oregon 20.

Mexico's national soccer team has now played there 6 times. The U.S. team has played there twice: A 3-1 win over Hondruas in the CONCACAF Gold Cup on July 24, 2013; and a 2-0 win over Costa Rica in the Gold Cup on July 22, 2017. The national teams of Brazil and Argentina, Mexican clubs Club America and San Luis, and European giants Chelsea, Barcelona and AS Roma have also played there. It has been selected by the U.S. Soccer Federation as a finalist to be one of the host venues for the 2026 World Cup. (UPDATE: FIFA approved it as a venue.)

The Cowboys offer tours of this Texas-sized facility, which will make the new Yankee Stadium seem sensible by comparison.

Don't bother looking for the former home of the Cowboys, Texas Stadium, because "the Hole Bowl" was demolished in 2010. If you must, the address was 2401 E. Airport Freeway, in Irving. The Cowboys reached 7 Super Bowls, winning 5, while playing there, made their Thanksgiving Day home game an annual classic, and became "America's Team" there. So many games were broadcast from there that some people joked that CBS stood for Cowboys Broadcasting Service. SMU played some home games there, and the U.S. soccer team played there once, a 1991 loss to Costa Rica.

The North American Soccer League's Dallas Tornado played most of its home games there, featuring native son Kyle Rote Jr., son of the SMU grad who played for the Giants in the 1950s. They hosted the 1973 NASL Final, but lost to the Philadelphia Atoms.

But they won the 1971 Final, 2-1 over the Atlanta Chiefs, at what was then their home field, Franklin Stadium, across from Hillcrest High School in North Dallas. 10000 Hillcrest Road, about 8 miles north of downtown. Red Line to Walnut Hill, then transfer to Bus 506 to Meadow & Stone Canyon, and then walk about half a mile west.

The Cowboys' 1st home, from 1960 to 1970, was the Cotton Bowl, which also hosted the Cotton Bowl game from 1937 to 2009, after which it was moved to AT&T Stadium. On 5 occasions, the game decided the National Championship: 1959-60, Syracuse over Texas; 1963-64, Texas over Navy; 1964-65, Arkansas over Nebraska; 1969-70, Texas over Notre Dame; and 1977-78, Notre Dame over Texas.

It also hosted the original NFL version of the Dallas Texans in 1952; the AFL's Dallas Texans from 1960 to 1962, before they moved and became the Kansas City Chiefs; some (but not all) home games of Southern Methodist University between 1932 and 2000; the Tornado in their 1967 and 1968 seasons' some games of soccer's 1994 World Cup, 7 U.S. soccer games, most recently a draw to Mexico in 2004; and an Elvis concert on October 11, 1956, the 20,000 fans being his biggest crowd until he resumed touring in 1970. It hosted the 2020 NHL Winter Classic, with the Dallas Stars beating the Nashville Predators 4-2. And it hosted 2 games of the 2021 CONCACAF Gold Cup.

But it's old, opening in 1930, and the only thing that's still held there is the annual "Red River Rivalry" game between the Universities of Texas and Oklahoma, every 2nd Saturday in October, and that's only because that's the weekend when the Texas State Fair is held, as the stadium is in Fair Park. (Just look for the statue of "Big Tex" -- you can't miss him.) While it doesn't seem fair that Oklahoma's visit to play Texas should be called a "neutral site" if it's in the State of Texas, the fact remains that each school gets half the tickets, and it's actually slightly closer to OU's campus in Norman, 191 miles, than it is from UT's in Austin, 197 miles. The address is 3750 The Midway.

Next-door is the African-American Museum of Dallas. 1300 Robert B. Cullum Blvd., in the Fair Park section of south Dallas. Bus 012 or 026, or Green Line light rail to Fair Park station. Be advised that this is generally considered to be a high-crime area of Dallas.

This year, the WNBA team formerly known as the Detroit Shock and the Tulsa Shock becomes the Dallas Wings, and begins play at the College Park Center. Opening in 2012, this 7,000-seat arena hosts the athletic teams of the University of Texas at Arlington. 601 S. Pecan Street, about 2 miles southwest of the Rangers' and Cowboys' stadiums. TRE to Centerport, MAX Bus to Center & Border.

The Major League Soccer club FC Dallas (formerly the Dallas Burn) play at Toyota Park at 9200 World Cup Way in the suburb of Frisco. It's 28 miles up the Dallas North Tollway from downtown, so forget about any way of getting there except driving. It hosted the MLS Cup Final in 2005 and 2006, and the U.S. soccer team has played there 3 times: A win and a loss against Guatemala, and a win this past July 7 against Honduras.

Before there was the Texas Rangers, and before the Dallas-Fort Worth Spurs minor league team that opened Turnpike/Arlington Stadium in 1965, there were the Dallas team alternately called the Steers, the Rebels, the Eagles and the Rangers; and the Fort Worth Cats. Dallas won Texas League (Double-A) Pennants in 1926, 1929, 1941, 1946 and 1953. They played at Burnett Field, which opened in 1924, and was abandoned after the Dallas Rangers and the Fort Worth Cats merged to become the Spurs in 1965. Currently, it's a vacant lot. 1500 E. Jefferson Blvd. at Colorado Blvd. Bus 011.

The Cats won TL Pennants in 1895, 1905, 1906, 1920, 1921, 1922, 1923, 1924, 1925, 1930, 1937, 1939 and 1948. Those 6 straight Pennants in the Twenties became a pipeline of stars for the St. Louis Cardinals, and the 1930 Pennant featured Dizzy Dean and a few other future members of the Cards' 1930s "Gashouse Gang."

The Cats played at LaGrave Field, the first version of which opened in 1900, and was replaced in 1926, again after a fire in 1949, and one more time in 2002, as a new Fort Worth Cats team began play in an independent league. 301 NE 6th Street. Trinity Railway Express to Fort Worth Intermodal Transit Center, then Number 1 bus.

Lone Star Park is the region's major horse racing track. It hosted the 2004 Breeders' Cup. 1000 Lone Star Parkway in Grand Prairie, 12 miles west of downtown Dallas, and about halfway between Arlington and Irving. No public transportation.

One more baseball-themed place in Texas that might interest a New York sports fan: Due to his cancer treatments and liver transplant, Mickey Mantle, who lived in Dallas during the off-seasons and after his baseball career, spent the end of his life at the Baylor University Medical Center. 3501 Junius Street at Gaston Avenue. Bus 019.

Merlyn Mantle died in 2009, and while it can be presumed that Mickey's surviving sons, Danny and David, inherited his memorabilia, I don't know what happened to their house, which (I've been led to believe) was in a gated community and probably not accessible to the public anyway; so even if I could find the address, I wouldn't list it here. (For all I know, one or both sons may live there, and I've heard that one of them -- Danny, I think -- is a Tea Party flake, and even if he wasn't, the family shouldn't be disturbed just because you're a Yankee Fan and their father was one of the Yankees.)

If you truly wish to pay your respects to this baseball legend: Mickey, Merlyn, and their sons Mickey Jr. and Billy are laid to rest at Sparkman-Hillcrest Memorial Park Cemetery. Also buried there are Tom Landry, tennis star Maureen Connolly, oil baron H.L. Hunt, Senator John Tower, Governor and Senator W. Lee "Pappy" O'Daniel, bluesman Freddie King, actress Greer Garson and Mary Kay Cosmetics founder Mary Kay Ash. 7405 West Northwest Highway at Durham Street. Red Line to Park Lane station, then 428 Bus to the cemetery.

If there's 2 non-sports things the average American knows about Dallas, it's that the city is where President John F. Kennedy was assassinated on November 22, 1963, and where Ewing Oil President J.R. Ewing was shot on March 21, 1980. Elm, Main and Commerce Streets merge to go over railroad tracks near Union Station, and then go under Interstate 35E, the Stemmons Freeway – that's the "triple underpass" so often mentioned in accounts of the JFK assassination.

The former Texas School Book Depository, now named The Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza, is at the northwest corner of Elm & Houston Streets, while the "grassy knoll" is to the north of Elm, and to the west of the Depository. Like Ford's Theater, where Abraham Lincoln was assassinated in 1865, and the area surrounding it in Washington, the area around Dealey Plaza is, structurally speaking, all but unchanged from the time the President in question was gunned down, an oddity in Dallas, where newer construction always seems to be happening. This enables movies to re-enact the shooting at the exact spot.

John Fitzgerald Kennedy was shot in downtown Dallas and died, while John Ross Ewing Jr. was shot in downtown Dallas and lived. Where's the justice in that? J.R. was shot in his office at Ewing Oil's headquarters, which, in the memorable opening sequence of Dallas, was shown to be in the Renaissance Tower, at 1201 Elm Street, 6 blocks east of Dealey Plaza. The actual incident, however, was filmed on a Hollywood soundstage, so if you show up and ask to see J.R.'s office, you'll be out of luck.

In addition to the preceding locations, Elvis sang in North Texas:

* At the Carthage Milling Company in Carthage, 160 miles southeast of downtown Dallas, on November 12, 1955 (the night of the dance in Back to the Future).

* At the high school gymnasium in DeKalb, 150 miles northeast, on March 4, 1955.

* At Owl Park in Gainesville, 70 miles north, on Apirl 14, 1955.

* In Gilmer, 125 miles east, at the Rural Electrification Administration Building on January 26, 1955, and at Trinity High School on September 26, 1955.

* In Gladewater, 120 miles east, at the Mint Club on November 23 and Dcember 24, 1954, the high school gym on April 30 and November 19, 1955, and at the baseball park on August 10, 1955.

* The City Auditorium in Greenville, 50 miles northeast, on October 5, 1955.

* In Hawkins, 110 miles east, at the high school on December 20, 1954 and the Humble Oil Company Camp on January 24, 1955.

* In Henderson, 140 miles southeast, at the Rodeo Arena on August 9, 1955.

* In Joinerville, 130 miles southeast, at Gaston High School on January 28, 1955.

* At Driller Park in Kilgore, 120 miles east, on August 12, 1955.

* At the Reo Palm Isle Club in Longview, 130 miles east, on January 27, March 31, August 11 and November 18, 1955.

* At the American Legion Hall in Mount Pleasant, 120 miles northeast, on December 31, 1954.

* In New Boston, 150 miles northeast, at the Red River Arsenal on December 31, 1954, and at the high school, first at the gym on January 11, 1955, and then at the football stadium on June 6, 1955.

* At the Boys Club Gymnasium in Paris, 100 miles northeast, on October 4, 1955.

* At the Recreation Hall in Stephenville, 100 miles southwest, on July 4, 1955.

* At the Mayfair Building in Tyler, 100 miles southeast, on January 25, May 23 and August 8, 1955.

* At the Heart O Texas Coliseum (now the Extraco Events Center) in Waco, 100 miles south, on April 23, 1955, and April 17 and October 12, 1956.

* And in Wichita Falls, 140 miles northwest, at the M-B Corral on April 25, 1955, at Spudder Park on August 22, 1956, and at the Memorial Auditorium on January 19 and April 9, 1956.

The Renaissance Tower was Dallas' tallest building from 1974 to 1985. In real life, it is the headquarters for Neiman Marcus. Bank of America Plaza, a block away on Elm at Griffith Street, is now the tallest building in Dallas, at 921 feet, although not the tallest in Texas: There's 2 in Houston that are taller.

Dallas' most familiar structure -- aside from AT&T Stadium, the Texas School Book Depository and Dallas' Southfork Ranch -- is the Reunion Tower, 561 feet high, part of the Hyatt Regency complex. 300 Reunion Blvd. at Young Street, just to the west of Union Station and to the southwest of Dealey Plaza.

The real Southfork Ranch is at 3700 Hogge Drive (that's pronounced "Hoag") in Parker, 28 miles northeast of the city. (Again, you'll need a car.) It's not nearly as old as the Ewing family's fictional history would suggest: It was built in 1970, only 8 years before the series premiered. It's now a conference center, and, like the replica of the Ponderosa Ranch that Lorne Greene had built to look like his TV home on Bonanza, it is designed to resemble the Ewing family home as seen on both the original 1978-91 series and the 2012-14 revival. It is open to tours, for an admission fee of $9.50.

Dallas values bigness, but unless you count Southfork and Dealey Plaza, it isn't big on museums. The best known is the Dallas Museum of Art, downtown at 1717 N. Harwood Street at Flora Street. Nearby is the Perot Museum of Nature and Science, named for ol' H. Ross himself, at 2201 N. Field Street at Broom Street.

The Dallas area is also home to 2 major football-playing colleges: Southern Methodist University in north Dallas, which, as alma mater of Laura Bush, was chosen as the site of the George W. Bush Presidential Library; and Texas Christian University in Fort Worth.

SMU played at Ownby Stadium (when not playing at the Cotton Bowl) from 1926 to 1998. The Dallas Tornado of the old North American Soccer League also played there from 1976 to 1979. It was demolished, and replaced with the 32,000-seat Gerald F. Ford stadium. (No relation to the 1974-77 President who'd been a star center on the University of Michigan football team, this Gerald Ford is a billionaire banker who gave $42 million of his own money to build it.) 5800 Ownby Drive.

The Bush Library is at 2943 SMU Blvd. & North Central Expressway, a 5-minute walk from Ford Stadium, Moody Coliseum, and the university bookstore, which, like so many university bookstores, is a Barnes & Noble (not named for Dallas character Cliff Barnes).

SMU is also home to Moody Coliseum, home court of their basketball team. The Dallas Chaparrals played ABA games there from 1967 until 1973, when they became the San Antonio Spurs. 6024 Airline Road. All SMU locations can be accessed by the Blue or Red Line to Mockingbird Station.
Moody Coliseum

SMU has produced players like Doak Walker, Forrest Gregg, Dandy Don Meredith, and the "Pony Express" backfield of Eric Dickerson and Craig James (both now TV-network studio analysts), while TCU has produced Slingin' Sammy Baugh, Jim Swink and Bob Lilly. Both schools have had their highs and their lows, and following their 1987 "death penalty" (for committing recruiting violations while already on probation), and their return to play in 1989 under Gregg as coach, SMU are now what college basketball fans would call a "mid-major" school.

Ironically, TCU, normally the less lucky of the schools, seriously challenged for the 2009, 2010 and 2014 National Championships, but their own "mid-major" schedule doomed them in that regard. TCU's Amon G. Carter Stadium hosted the U.S. soccer team's 1988 loss to Ecuador. 2850 Stadium Drive. Trinity Rail Express to Fort Worth Intermodal Station, transfer to Bus 7 to University & Princeton, then walk 6 blocks west.

Aside from Dallas, TV shows that have shot in, or been set in, the Dallas area include Walker, Texas Ranger, Prison Break, the new series Queen of the South (based on a Mexican telenovela), and the ridiculous, short-lived ABC nighttime soap GCB (which stood for "Good Christian Bitches").

The Fox cartoon King of the Hill was definitely in Texas, but clues suggested that their fictional town of Arlen could be in any of several different parts of the State. The fact that they're obviously all Cowboys fans -- the show premiered in 1997, a few days after the last Houston Oilers home game -- suggests it's near Dallas.

Movies about, or involving, the JFK assassination usually have to shoot in Dallas, including the 1983 NBC miniseries Kennedy with Martin Sheen, JFK, Love Field, Ruby, Watchmen, LBJ (with Bryan Cranston as the Texan who succeeded him), and the Hulu series 11/22/63, based on Stephen King's fantasy novel.

Other movies shot in the city include the 1962 version of State Fair, Bonnie and Clyde, Mars Needs Women, Logan's Run, The Lathe of Heaven, Silkwood, Tender Mercies, Places in the Heart, The Trip to Bountiful, Born on the Fourth of July, Problem Child, My Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys (about actual cowboys, not the football team), The Apostle, Boys Don't Cry, Dallas Buyers Club, the football films Necessary Roughness (at the University of North Texas in Denton) and Any Given Sunday, and, of course, the porno classic Debbie Does Dallas.

However, it might surprise you to know that RoboCop, which was set in a Detroit that was purported to be in a near future when the city was even worse than it then was in real life, was filmed in Dallas. What does that say about Dallas? (To me, it says, "This is another reason why Dallas sucks.")

*

Texas is a weird place, and the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex is no exception. But it's a pretty good area for sports, and it even seems to have finally embraced baseball as something more than something to do between football seasons.

If you can afford it, go, and help your fellow Knicks or Nets fans make the Mavericks feel like they're in the Big Apple. But remember to avoid using the oft-heard phrase "Dallas Sucks." The city does, the team doesn't. At any rate, in this case, keep the truth to yourself! 

Wednesday, December 1, 2021

How to Be a New York Basketball Fan In San Antonio -- 2021 Edition

The New York Knicks are visiting the San Antonio Spurs next Tuesday night, December 7, The Brooklyn Nets will visit on January 21.

Before You Go. San Antonio is in Texas. If you're still nervous about people who aren't willing to protect you from COVID, don't go. If you do go, wear a mask. If anyone has a problem with you, ignore them. They're the idiots. But don't say that. You'll be outnumbered.

San Antonio is in Texas, but this is going to be Winter. You won't have to worry about excessive heat. Still, the San Antonio Express-News website is predicting high 70s for the afternoon, unseasonably high by our standards, and high 50s for the evening. At least they're not predicting rain for the entire week.

Contrary to its Confederate past, and its Republic of Texas past, San Antonio is not in a foreign country. You will not need to bring a passport, and you will not need to change your money. It is, however, in the Central Time Zone, so you'll have to set your timepieces back an hour. And, despite what Donald Trump says, there is no wall in San Antonio to keep you -- or illegal immigrants -- out.

Tickets. The Spurs were averaging 18,393 fans per home game in 2019-20, before COVID shut everything down, a sellout. Not surprising, considering they're the only team in town. (They don't even have a major college football or basketball team anywhere near, and San Antonio FC have little chance of getting promoted to MLS, especially with the MLS expansion team coming to Austin.) Getting tickets could be tough.

Lower level seats, the 100 sections, are $151 between the baskets, and $88 behind them. Upper level seats, the 200 sections, are $27 between the baskets and $16 behind them.

Getting There. It's 1,864 miles from Midtown Manhattan to downtown San Antonio. Google Maps says the fastest way from New York to New Orleans by road is to take the Holland Tunnel to Interstate 78 to Harrisburg, then I-81 through the Appalachian Mountains, and then it gets complicated from there.

No, the best way to go, if you must drive, is to take the New Jersey Turnpike/I-95 all the way from New Jersey to Petersburg, Virginia. Exit 51 will put you on I-85 South, and that will take you right through Charlotte and Atlanta, to Montgomery, Alabama. There, you'll switch to I-65 South, and take that into Mobile, where you'll switch to I-10 West, which will take you through New Orleans and Houston, and on to San Antonio.

You'll be in New Jersey for about an hour and a half, Delaware for 20 minutes, Maryland for 2 hours, inside the Capital Beltway (Maryland, District of Columbia and Virginia) for half an hour if you're lucky (and don't make a rest stop anywhere near D.C.), Virginia for 3 hours, North Carolina for 4 hours, South Carolina for about an hour and 45 minutes, Georgia for 3 hours, Alabama for 4 hours and 45 minutes, Mississippi for an hour and 15 minutes, Louisiana for 4 hours and 45 minutes, and Texas for 5 hours. Use Exit 569 for downtown.

So we're talking about 27 hours. Throw in traffic in and around New York, Washington, Atlanta, New Orleans and Houston, plus rest stops, preferably in Delaware, and then one each in Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama and Louisiana, and maybe 2 in Texas, and it'll be closer to 36 hours. Still wanna drive? Didn't think so.

Flying? If you play your cards right, you can get a nonstop flight for only $240. Most likely, though, you'd have to change planes in Dallas or Houston, regardless of which airline you used. Still, even that is just 8 hours, and that's a whole lot better than 36. The Number 5 bus can get you from the airport to downtown in 45 minutes.

Amtrak can get you there with the Lake Shore Limited leaving Penn Station at 3:40 PM Eastern on Saturday, arriving at Union Station in Chicago at 9:50 AM Central on Sunday, and switching to the Texas Eagle at 1:45 PM and arriving in San Antonio at 9:55 PM Central on Monday -- giving you a trip of 30 hours and 15 minutes, but nearly a full day in San Antonio before tipoff at 7:30 PM Central on Thursday.

You would then board the Texas Eagle again at 7:00 AM Central on Wednesday, arriving at Chicago at 1:52 PM Central on Thursday, switching to the Lake Shore Limited at 9:30 PM Central, and arriving back in New York at 6:23 PM Eastern on Friday. The cost would be $464 round-trip. The Historic Sunset Station is at 1174 E. Commerce Street at Hoefgen Avenue, just north of the Alamodome. 
Historic Sunset Station, with the Alamodome behind it.

ALERT: This time, you can't do that. The Lake Shore Limited is already sold out for that day. There is another way to do it, but you'd have to spend a night in a hotel in New Orleans waiting to change trains. So Amtrak is out for this trip.

On Greyhound, you'd have to leave Port Authority on Sunday, changing buses in Atlanta and Dallas, and getting to San Antonio on Tuesday, to make it by tipoff. Round-trip fare is $695, but it can drop to $484 with advanced purchase. The Greyhound station is at 500 N. St. Mary's Street at Pecan Street, a block from the River Walk.

Once In the City. Texas declared its independence from Mexico on March 2, 1836; was admitted to the Union as the 28th State on December 29, 1845; became the 7th State to secede from the Union, on February 1, 1861; and the 10th former Confederate State to be readmitted, on March 30, 1870.

San Antonio was founded by the Spanish in 1718, and named for St. Anthony of Padua. With over 1.4 million people, it's the 7th-largest city in America, trailing only New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, Houston, Phoenix and Philadelphia. This makes it easily the largest city in the U.S. without a Major League Baseball team, and except for Montreal the largest such city in the U.S. and Canada combined. Now that Los Angeles has gotten back into the NFL, San Antonio is the largest U.S. city without a team in that league, too.

But its metropolitan area has just 2.5 million, making it smaller than all MLB markets except Kansas City and Milwaukee, and 26th in the NFL. (That's if you properly combine Cincinnati and Dayton, but it's still bigger than the combinations of Milwaukee and Green Bay, and Buffalo and Niagara Falls.)

The city's population is 64 percent Latino, 27 percent white, 7 percent black and 2 percent Asian. This mixed heritage is reflected in the Spurs' lineup: They have long relied on foreign-born (or, at least, off-the-mainland) players, including Tim Duncan (U.S. Virgin Islands), Manu Ginobili (Argentina), Tony Parker (France) and the still-there Pau Gasol (Spain). As recently as 2013, 8 of their 15 players were born outside the 50 States. And San Antonio has had considerably less racial strife than other Southern cities, including Texas cities Dallas and Houston.

The sales tax in San Antonio is 8.25 percent. ZIP Codes for the area start with the digits 781, 782 and 788. The Area Code is 210, with 756 being added as an overlay next October. CPS Energy -- its initials coming from its former name, City Public Service -- runs the electricity.

The San Antonio River divides addresses into East and West, and Market Street into North and South. VIA Metropolitan Transit runs buses, charging $1.20 for a single fare, and the "E" streetcar, a free downtown circulator.

San Antonio has 3 "beltways" ringing the city. From inward to outward, they are: Interstate 410, State Route 1604, and another consisting of State Route 46 (north), State Route 123 (east), State Route 97 (southeast), and State Route 173 (southwest and west).

Going In. The Spurs' arena is named the AT&T Center, not to be confused with the Dallas Cowboys' new home, AT&T Stadium; or the San Francisco Giants' new home, which used to be named AT&T Park, but is now Oracle Park.

Since 2002, it has hosted the Spurs, including the last 4 of their 5 NBA Championships. It also hosts the San Antonio Rampage of the American Hockey League, and the San Antonio Stock Show & Rodeo. It formerly hosted the WNBA's San Antonio Stars, who have been moved to Las Vegas.
AT&T Center, with the Freeman Coliseum behind it.

The official address is 1 AT&T Center Parkway, and it stands off E. Houston Street and N. Onslow Street, next to the Freeman Coliseum, a 1949 arena seating just 9,800, where the Stars played the 2016 season, previous minor-league hockey teams played, and the Stock Show & Rodeo was previously held. Formerly known as the Bexar County Coliseum, Elvis Presley played 2 shows there early in his career, a matinee and an evening show on October 14, 1956.

The complex is 3 miles east of downtown, and can be reached with the VIA Number 22, 24 or 25 bus in about 40 minutes. Parking has to be reserved in advance, and costs $14. So, better to take the bus in.
Most likely, you'll enter the arena from the south end. The court is laid out east to west.

Food. San Antonio is at the center of Tex-Mex culture, especially food, in America. This is reflected at the AT&T Center. The HEB Fan Zone has Tortilla Fresca, "Extreme Nachos" are at Sections 113 and 128, and Section 105 has a Churros stand.

But the arena has lots of other offerings, including their base, the 3-Point Meal: A hot dog, a 16-ounce soda, and popcorn, at Sections 103, 118, 126, 209 and 226.

There's Top Dog hot dogs at 105, Rudy's Country Store & BBQ at 121, Bratwurst or Jalapeno Cheese Sausages at 105, Funnel Cake at 113, and Anne's Ice Cream at 111, 125, 212 and 225. Sections 122 and 200 have "Bottomless Soda Fountains," offering free refills. Coffee and frozen lemonade stands are all over. And, as you would expect in Texas, lots and lots of beer, and lots and lots of margaritas.

Team History Displays. The Spurs hang their 5 NBA Championship banners: 1999, 2003, 2005, 2007 and 2014. These are flanked by Conference title banners: 1999, 2003 and 2005 on the left; 2007, 2013 and 2014 on the right, followed on the right by a single banner for their Division titles: 1978, 1979, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1990, 1991, 1995, 1996, 1999, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2017.
On the other side of the arena are banners for their 10 retired numbers. 00 for guard Johnny Moore, 13 for guard James Silas, and 44 for the Iceman, George Gervin, predated their 5 NBA titles. 6 for guard Avery Johnson, 21 for forward Tim Duncan, 32 for forward Sean Elliott, and 50 for center David Robinson were from the 1999 title. Duncan's 21, Robinson's 50, 9 for guard Tony Parker, 12 for forward Bruce Bowen, and 20 for guard Manu Ginóbili are from the 2003 title.

Duncan, Parker, Bowen and Ginóbili were still with the Spurs for the 2005 and 2007 titles. Duncan, Parker and Ginóbili were still there for the 2014 title.
The numbers for Parker and Ginóbili were not yet retired
at the time of this photo.

Gervin and Robinson were named to the NBA's 50th Anniversary 50 Greatest Players. They and Artis Gilmore, whose Number 53 has not yet been retired, were elected to the Basketball Hall of Fame. Parker and Ginóbili could be. Gervin, Robinson, Duncan and Kawhi Leonard were named to the NBA's 75th Anniversary 75 Greatest Players.

Gervin, Silas, Bob Netolicky and Billy Paultz were named to the ABA All-Time Team. So was Louie Dampier, the former University of Kentucky star who played for the Kentucky Colonels, before playing the Spurs' 1st 3 seasons in the NBA, 1976-79. A statue of Duncan stands outside the AT&T Center.
The Spurs have rivalries with the other 2 Texas-based teams in the NBA. They lead the Houston Rockets 122-103 in their all-time series. They have faced each other in the Playoffs 4 times. The Rockets won the 1st 3, in 1980, 1981 and 1995, before the Spurs won in 2017.

The Spurs lead the Dallas Mavericks 134-89. They've had 6 Playoff matchups, with the Spurs winning in 2001, 2003, 2010 and 2014; and the Mavs winning in 2006 and 2009.

Stuff. Part of the arena's renovations included a larger team store, to sell more items. Whether they go with the Texas theme and sell cowboy hats with the team logo on them, I don't know.

Despite having won more titles since 1998 than any other team but the Lakers (who've also won 5 in that span, to 3 for the Miami Heat and the Golden State Warriors, and 1 each for the Detroit Pistons, the Boston Celtics, the Dallas Mavericks and the Cleveland Cavaliers), the Spurs have never been media darlings.

This may be due to the fact that San Antonio is the 3rd-biggest market in Texas, behind Dallas and Houston. Or, it may be that, compared to the power of Shaquille O'Neal, and the flash of Kobe Bryant, LeBron James and Steph Curry, Tim Duncan seemed boring -- even though he's probably been the best, or at least the most accomplished, NBA player since Michael Jordan retired for the 2nd time in 1998.

So if you're looking for books about the Spurs, good luck. Shane Frederick has done the Spurs' edition of The NBA: A History of Hoops series, while Jesse Blanchard published Dynasty: The San Antonio Spurs' Timeless 2014 Championship.

Their best player has been honored with Clayton Geoffreys' Tim Duncan: The Inspiring Story of Basketball's Greatest Power Forward, and the coach for all 5 titles with The Leadership Lessons of Gregg Popovich: A Case Study on the San Antonio Spurs' 5-time NBA Championship Winning Head Coach, edited by Leadership Case Studies.

Highlight DVDs are available for all 5 titles, and the NBA made up a collection for the 1st 4 (1997 to 2007).

During the Game. A November 13, 2014 article on DailyRotoHelp ranked the NBA teams' fan bases, and listed the Spurs' fans 5th. It mentions that the attendance has fallen below 18,000 only 3 times since 1994, before the Popovich-Duncan golden age began. (I won't call it a "dynasty," but it is a "golden age.") "That's loyalty at its finest," the article says.

Spurs fans are, by Texas standards, not particularly aggressive. They don't much like the Dallas Mavericks, the Houston Rockets, the Los Angeles Lakers, the Phoenix Suns or whatever team LeBron James happens to be playing on at any given moment. But they won't start trouble. They certainly won't start it with fans of the Knicks or the Nets. So if you leave them alone, they'll show you the same courtesy.

Coach Pop has hired the 1st female assistant coach in the history of men's major league sports in North America: Becky Hammon, a 6-time WNBA All-Star for the New York Liberty and the San Antonio Stars. She led the Spurs to the Las Vegas Summer League title in 2016. Also that year, she was inducted into the Liberty's Ring of Honor. In 2012, she was named to the WNBA's 15th Anniversary 15 Greatest Players. In 2016, she was named to the WNBA Top 20 at 20 -- in the 20th Season, rather than at the 20th Anniversary.

The Spurs' longtime National Anthem singer was Charles Glenn, but he retired at the end of the 2019 season, due to illness. Before Game 3 of the 2013 NBA Finals, former Hootie & the Blowfish lead singer Darius Rucker got held up at the airport on the way to San Antonio, and had to cancel his performance of the National Anthem with but hours to spare. They hired Sebastien De La Cruz, an 11-year-old local boy, a 5th-generation American, who'd recently appeared on America's Got Talent, with no controversy for that. He sang the Anthem wearing a mariachi costume in black and white, Spurs colors, and knocked the fans' socks off.

After a despicable outcry from online racists (shades of the Jose Feliciano situation during the 1968 World Series), the Spurs responded by, essentially, telling the bigots to go to Hell. They invited Sebastien to do it again before Game 4, proving that San Antonio is an oasis of open-mindedness in the bigoted desert of Texas.

He was invited back before Game 2 of the 2014 Finals and a 2015 Playoff game, and is now 16 and a junior in high school. In 2016, he sang the National Anthem at the Democratic National Convention. In spite of all this, he is still not the Spurs' official Anthem singer. Perhaps, with Glenn's retirement, with De La Cruz will soon no longer has to worry about getting back from the game on a school night, he will be made the official singer. In the meantime, the team still holds auditions for the Anthem.
Sebastien De La Cruz

The Spurs have The Coyote as their mascot. He won the NBA's Mascot of the Year award for 2014 and 2020, and he's been elected to the Mascot Hall of Fame. He wears Number 2! (That's right: 2 with an exclamation point.) He's also been known to wear costumes, like Uncle Sam and Batman. And, like Go the Gorilla in Phoenix and Hugo the Hornet in Charlotte, he does stunt dunks.
This Coyote doesn't waste his time chasing roadrunners.

On April 8, 2017, Andrew Lynch ranked the NBA mascots for Fox Sports' website. He ranked the Coyote 1st, saying, "Look at those eyes and tell me there's a better mascot in the NBA. I dare you."

The Spurs also have the Silver Dancers as their cheerleaders. They have 2 theme songs, "Go, Spurs, Go!" and "Black & Silver." "Go, Spurs, Go!" is the home fans' main chant.

After the Game. Compared to Dallas and Houston, San Antonio's crime problem is considerably less. You do not need to fear your way out of the arena.

There is a place called New York Bar at 2838 N. Loop 1604 East, but I have no idea if it caters to New Yorkers, or if it specializes in putting New York teams' games on its TVs. It could just be a name. Sideliners Grill is a known Jet fans hangout, but it's 14 miles north of downtown, and it's a place you'd have to drive to, unless you want to take 3 buses. 15630 Henderson Pass.

If your visit to San Antonio is during the European soccer season, the top "football pub" in town is The Lion & Rose, at 17627 La Cantera Parkway, 16 miles northwest of downtown. Bus 94.

Sidelights. On November 30, 2018, Thrillist published a list of "America's 25 Most Fun Cities," and San Antonio came in 22nd. While San Antonio has become a huge city, its sports history is not very long, and not very varied. But its history goes back over 300 years, and is worth checking out.

* HemisFair. HemisFair '68 was a World's Fair, whose structures included what remains the tallest structure in San Antonio, the 750-foot Tower of the Americas. The grounds also included a convention center, now named for the late longtime Congressman Henry B. Gonzalez; a pavilion that has been converted into the main building of the University of Texas at San Antonio; the Briscoe Western Art Museum, easily the best-known museum in the city that isn't The Alamo; the 403-foot Tower Life Building, built in the Art Deco style in 1927 and incorporated into the Fair site; the Aztec Theatre; and the HemisFair Arena, the Spurs' original home.

Built as part of the Fair in 1968, the American Basketball Association's Dallas Chaparrals, who had experimented with playing at several site in Texas, moved in for the 1973-74 season, and changed their name to the San Antonio Spurs. It seated just 10,146, so in 1978 they literally raised the roof, and increased capacity to 16,114 fans. Despite many of those nearly 6,000 extra seats being obstructed view, the Arena became one of the loudest in the NBA following the semi-merger with the ABA.
The popularity of the Spurs actually doomed the place, leading to the need for a larger arena. They moved out in 1993, and it was demolished in 1995. The site is now occupied by an expansion of the Gonzalez Convention Center.

Elvis never sang at the HemisFair Arena, but he did give concerts at the Convention Center on April 18, 1972, October 8, 1974, and August 27, 1976.

Although Dallas now has an NHL team, and Houston had one of the better WHA teams, San Antonio has never tried to get a team in either league. The closest NHL team is the Dallas Stars, 275 miles away. The closest Major League Soccer team is the Houston Dynamo, 193 miles. The closest major-college football team is the University of Texas, 77 miles.

* Alamodome. Built by Bexar County in 1993 to house the Spurs, and also to attract an NFL team, this stadium seats 65,000 people for football, and is expandable to 72,000. It annually hosts the Alamo Bowl and the U.S. Army-sponsored All-American Bowl. (Fort Sam Houston is located in San Antonio.)
It's hosted the NCAA Final Four 4 times: 1998 (Kentucky beat Utah in the Final), 2004 (Connecticut over Georgia Tech), 2008 (Kansas' epic comeback, or Memphis' epic choke if you prefer), and 2018 (Villanova over Michigan). It will host again in 2025. It hosted the 1996 NBA All-Star Game.
Since 2013, the Texas Rangers have closed their spring training by playing at the Alamodome, although the shape of the field makes it unsuitable for baseball, with the right field pole just 280 feet from home plate and straightaway right only 305, perilously close.
The U.S. soccer team played at the Alamodome on April 15, 2015, beating Mexico 2-0 -- or "Dos a Cero," as U.S. fans sometimes taunt their arch-rivals, due to that score having been a famous result between them at the 2002 World Cup. The U.S. team previously played in San Antonio at Comalander Stadium on June 14, 1988, a 1-0 win over Costa Rica. It hosted 2 games of the 2017 CONCACAF Gold Cup.

On the sitcom Coach, The Alamodome hosted the 1993 Pioneer Bowl, at which the fictional Minnesota State won the National Championship. (But game action was filmed at the Metrodome in Minneapolis.) When Gregory Nava made his film Selena, starring Jennifer Lopez as the ill-fated Latina singer, the Alamodome was used as a stand-in for her legendary Astrodome concert, even though the structures look nothing alike, inside or out.

But the stadium's main focus remains football. And yet, the only team currently calling it home is the University of Texas at San Antonio (UTSA), who announced the starting of their program in 2006, first hit the field in 2011, and moved up to the FBS (formerly Division I-A) in 2012. The Roadrunners are members of Conference USA, and from 2011 to 2015 were coached by former University of Miami head coach Larry Coker. Under current coach Frank Wilson, they reached the 2016 New Mexico Bowl. The Big 12 Conference Championship Game has been played there in 1997, 1999 and 2007.

On November 19, 2018, Moneywise compiled a list of their Worst College Football Stadiums, the bottom 19 percent of college football, 25 out of 129. The Alamodome came off very badly, at Number 3:

The 25-year-old Alamodome is massive. It has a capacity for up to 64,000 football fans — which doesn't do the UTSA Roadrunners any favors.
This year's home opener drew more than 42,000 fans, though that still meant that about a third of the stadium was empty. The lack of spectators leaves much of the game day atmosphere at the door.
The Alamodome gets just two and a half stars on Yelp. "The grading and angles of the stands create too many blind spots," says one negative reviewer. "I probably would have been better off watching the game from home." 

The Dallas Cowboys have occasionally held training camp at the Alamodome -- making some sense, since, according to a September 2014 article in The Atlantic, they are easily the most popular NFL team in town, well ahead of the closer Houston Texans. The Canadian Football League's brief American experiment included the San Antonio Texans, who played only the 1995 season. The San Antonio Talons of the Arena Football League failed in 2014, after 3 seasons. The New Orleans Saints played 4 "home" games there in 2005, after Hurricane Katrina made playing at the Superdome impossible that season.

But in 1993, shortly after it opened, the NFL chose Charlotte and Jacksonville for its expansion teams. After the 1994 season, Los Angeles' teams chose to move elsewhere: The Rams to St. Louis, the Raiders back to Oakland. After 1995, the old Cleveland Browns chose to become the Baltimore Ravens rather than the San Antonio Whatevers. And in 2002, after the new Browns became the NFL's 31st team, the 32nd went to another Texas city, Houston.

The Raiders recently made an inquiry about moving to San Antonio, but they wanted the Alamodome only as a stopgap facility, and the city to build them a new stadium. That wasn't going to happen. And so, for the time being, the closest NFL team will remain the Houston Texans, 201 miles away.

The Spurs usually played before a basketball setup of 20,662, but were able to expand to 39,554 for Games 1 and 2 of the 1999 NBA Finals. But the stadium's sight lines simply weren't meant for basketball, and after that title, the Spurs had a lot of leverage, and got a new arena.

The Alamodome has enough events scheduled so that its future is not in doubt, but the chances of an NFL team ever playing there are getting slimmer and slimmer. 100 Montana Street at Market Street. Number 26, 28 or 30 bus from downtown.

* Nelson W. Wolff Municipal Stadium. Built in 1994, this ballpark is now the oldest in use in the Class AA Texas League, and is known as "The Jewel of the Texas League." It seats 6,200 people, with a left-field hill that can hold another 3,000. (If you've been to a Jersey Shore BlueClaws game, you have an idea.)
It's the home of one of the most storied minor-league baseball teams, the San Antonio Missions. But the 2018 season will be the last for the current version, in the Class AA Texas League. For 2019, they have been moved to Amarillo, which is opening a new ballpark. But the Pacific Coast League's Colorado Springs Sky Sox have moved in for 2019, to become the new Missions, thus promoting the team to Class AAA, 1 step below the major leagues.

They've won 13 Pennants, 6 since moving in, most recently in 2013. Their alumni include Hall-of-Famers Brooks Robinson, Joe Morgan, Dennis Eckersley and Pedro Martinez, plus All-Stars Jerry Grote, Fernando Valenzuela, Orel Hershiser, Eric Karros, John Wetteland, Mike Piazza, Pedro's brother Ramon Martinez, Paul Konerko, Paul Lo Duca, Adrian Beltre, Felix Hernandez and Chase Headley. 5750 West U.S. Highway 90, about 8 miles west of downtown. Number 76 bus.
From 1968 to 1993, the Missions played at V.J. Keefe Stadium, on the campus of St. Mary's University. It still stands. 1 Camino Santa Maria, about 6 miles west of downtown. Number 82 bus. Keefe Stadium was the new home of San Antonio baseball after a 3-season hiatus.
Before that, Mission Stadium was their home from 1947 to 1964, including Brooks Robinson's and Joe Morgan's tenures with them. The Bexar County Juvenile Detention Center and the County Probation Office are now on the site. Mission Road and Mitchell Street, about 3 miles south of downtown. Number 42 bus.
According to an April 2014 article in The New York Times, the Texas Rangers are easily the most popular MLB team in San Antonio, with the Houston Astros, the Yankees and the Red Sox battling it out for 2nd, despite the Astros being closer than the Rangers, 199 miles to 281.

* Alamo Stadium. Built in 1940, this remains, approaching its 80th Anniversary, the largest high school football stadium in Texas, seating 18,500 people. It was home to the San Antonio Wings of the World Football League in 1975, the San Antonio Gunslingers of the USFL in 1984 and '85, the San Antonio Riders of the World League of American Football in 1991 and '92, and the San Antonio Thunder of the old North American Soccer League in 1976, featuring English soccer legends Bobby Moore of West Ham United and Bob McNab of Arsenal. 110 Tuleta Drive, about 3 miles north of downtown. Number 7, 8 or 9 bus. The San Antonio Zoo is across U.S. Route 281, the McAllister Freeway.

* Toyota Field. This 8,296-seat stadium opened in 2013 for the San Antonio Scorpions of the new version of the North American Soccer League. But it was sold after the 2015 season, and the Scorpions were folded, and the new owners put a new team there, San Antonio FC. 5106 David Edwards Drive, adjacent to the Morgan's Wonderland amusement park, 15 miles northeast of downtown. Bus 17 to the Randolph Park & Ride, then transfer to Bus 502.

* H-E-B Park. Okay, this isn't close to San Antonio. In fact, it's 230 miles away, at 1616 S. Raul Longoria Road, in Edinburg, just 16 miles from the Border. But San Antonio is the closest major league city to it.

It's a soccer-specific stadium that opened in 2017, seats 9,735, and serves as the home of Rio Grande Valley FC Toros, of the United Soccer League, the 2nd tier of North American soccer. The team is affiliated with Major League Soccer's Houston Dynamo. In October 2018, H-E-B Park hosted Group B of the CONCACAF Women's Championship, including the national teams of Canada, Costa Rica, Cuba and Jamaica.

* The Alamo. If there's one thing a person not familiar with the NBA knows about San Antonio, it's that it's the home of Misión San Antonio de Valero, a.k.a. simply "the Alamo." A mission set up by Spanish priests in 1718 (the current building dates to 1758), it was named for Saint Anthony of Padua (as was the city), and nicknamed for the Spanish word for the nearby cottonwood trees.

It was the site of a siege, ending on March 6, 1836, by Mexican troops, trying to keep American slaveholders out of their country. That's right: Despite what the people of Texas and the 1960 film The Alamo, with John Wayne playing Davy Crockett, told you, if you truly "Remember the Alamo," you know that the good guys won there. Indeed: Irony of ironies, at the Alamo, the Texans were the very things today's white Texans say they hate the most: Illegal immigrants! And otherwise criminals. (Slavery was already illegal in Mexico.) The Alamo is one of many bullshit-laden John Wayne movies, and it's hardly the most egregious offender.

But it was held up as an example of Texas courage, "The Shrine of Texas Liberty." At the Battle of San Jacinto, 46 days later, at which the establishment of the Republic of Texas was assured (until, terrified of another Mexican invasion, they called their Uncle Sammy for help, resulting in annexation by the U.S. in 1845), the Anglo troops yelled, "Remember the Alamo!"

(This led to Union troops in the Civil War yelling, "Remember Fredericksburg!"; U.S. troops in the Spanish-American War yelling, "Remember the Maine!"; and U.S. troops in the Pacific Theater of World War II yelling, "Remember Pearl Harbor!")
It's open 9:00 AM to 5:30 PM every day except Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, until 7:00 in the Summer. Admission is free, but they do accept donations -- understandable, since we're talking about a building over 250 years old. 300 Alamo Plaza at E. Houston Street, downtown.
It's easy to forget that this 263-year-old structure,
kept standing because of a battle 185 years ago,
is in the heart of a modern city.

* San Antonio Municipal Auditorium. Built in 1926 as a municipal memorial to World War I, and still standing, Elvis sang here near the beginning of his career, in 1956, giving 2 shows each on January 15 and April 15. 100 Auditorium Circle at Jefferson Street, at the northern edge of downtown.

Elvis also sang in West Texas at the following locations:

* Abilene, at the Fair Park Auditorium on February 15 and October 11, 1975; at the Exposition Center in Abilene on October 9, 1974; and at the Taylor County Coliseum in Abilene on March 27, 1977.

* Alpine, at the Alpine High School Auditorium on February 10, 1955.

* Amarillo, at the Amarillo Municipal Auditorium on October 13, 1955 and April 13, 1956; at the Amarillo Civic Center on June 19, 1974.

* Andrews, at Andrews High School on April 28, 1955.

* Big Spring, at the City Auditorium on April 26, 1955.

* Breckenridge, at the High School Auditorium on April 13, 1955, and the American Legion Hall on June 10, 1955.

* Brownwood, at the Memorial Hall on July 4 and October 10, 1955.

* Cherry Springs, at the Cherry Springs Tavern on October 9, 1955.

* DeLeon, at Hodges Park on July 4, 1955 (an afternoon show before Brownwood Memorial Hall).

* El Paso, at the Civic Center Coliseum on April 11, 1956; November 10, 1972; and June 2, 1976.

* Lubbock, at the Fair Park Coliseum on January 6, February 13, June 3 and October 15, 1955, and April 10, 1956 at the Cotton Club on April 29 and October 15, 1955; at the Johnson-Connelley Pontiac Club on June 3, 1955; and the Municipal Coliseum on November 8, 1972 and May 13, 1976.

* Midland, at the Midland High School Auditorium on January 7, May 31 and October 12, 1955.

* Odessa, at the Field House at Odessa Senior High School on February 16, May 31 and October 14, 1955; at the Ector County Auditorium on April 1, 1955; and at the Ector County Coliseum on May 30, 1976

* San Angelo, at the San Angelo City Auditorium on January 5 and February 17, 1955.

* Seymour, at the Seymour High School Auditorium on April 25, 1955.

* Stamford, at the Stamford High School Auditorium on April 15, 1955, and at Roundup Hall on April 15 and June 17, 1955.

* Sweetwater, at the Municipal Auditorium on June 9 and December 16, 1955.

Now, back to points of interest in and around San Antonio:

* San Antonio River Walk. Also known as Paseo del Rio, this network of walkways along the San Antonio River is a level below the streets of downtown, connecting downtown to the HemisFair site to the south and the Southwest School of Art and the Tobin Center for the Performing Arts to the north. In between are stores, bars, and, well, it's San Antonio's answer to Greenwich Village and the South Street Seaport, all in one.

* Sea World. In addition to Orlando and San Diego, Sea World has a theme park in San Antonio. It's 18 miles west of downtown, but still within the city limits, at 10500 Sea World Drive. Number 64 bus, taking an hour and 15 minutes.

The San Antonio area has never produced a President. The closest it comes to doing so is Lyndon Baines Johnson, who served from November 22, 1963 to January 20, 1969. His LBJ Ranch, now part of the National Park System (he died in 1973, and his wife, Claudia "Lady Bird" Johnson, followed him in 2007), is 70 miles north of San Antonio in Stonewall, Texas. It can only be reached by car.

San Antonio hasn't yet been a major TV and movie location. The recent NBC medical drama The Night Shift was set there, but filmed in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Films produced in or around San Antonio include the 1927 silent classic Wings, the original 1972 version of The Getaway, The Great Waldo Pepper, 8 Seconds, All the Pretty Horses, Miss Congeniality, and the 1st 2 Spy Kids movies. And, of course, Pee-Wee Herman's film Pee-Wee's Big Adventure had a segment shot at... uh, I forget.

Friday Night Lights' fictional town of Dillon wasn't said to be near any major city, but the book it was based on was about the real Permian High School in Odessa, in West Texas, so I'm putting it with the San Antonio trip guide.

*

San Antonio is home to history and one of North American sports' most successful, yet underappreciated, teams. If you're a Knicks or Nets fan, git on down and check it out. 

Ray Kennedy, 1951-2021

Ray Kennedy was a legend at age 18, a legend for 2 different teams at 25, and said to be past it at 30. That was unfair. But the truly unfair was yet to come.

Raymond Kennedy (no middle name) was born on July 28, 1951 in Seaton Delaval, Northumberland, 8 miles northeast of downtown Newcastle, and 50 miles southeast of the England-Scotland "border." This is the North-East, a place that American sportswriter Chuck Culpeper wrote is "where England begins to think about turning into Scotland." People there are called "Geordies," and their accent is often so thick, even Scotsmen and other Englishmen find them hard to understand.

But the region is crazy about football (what we call soccer), and no less an English legend than Sir Stanley Matthews came to the Kennedy family home, to persuade a 16-year-old Ray to sign for Port Vale in Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire. But, given a tryout, Sir Stan decided that Ray was too slow.

Matthews admitted in his memoir, "Of course, there is always one lad who slips through the net, and for me, that was Ray Kennedy, who went on to find fame and fortune with Arsenal, Liverpool and England. Ray turned out to be a superb player, and all I can say in my defence is, he was a late developer!"

He went back home, and got a job in a candy factory, and led New Hartley Juniors to victory in every competition they entered. A scout from North London team Arsenal saw him, and he signed an apprentice contract with them in May 1968. He made his first-team debut on September 29, 1969, a 1-0 loss to Glentoran at The Oval in Belfast, Northern Ireland in the 1st Round of the Inter-Cities Fairs Cup. However, Arsenal had won the home leg 3-0, and advanced on aggregate.

Arsenal reached the Final of this tournament, now known as the UEFA Europa League. It was a two-legged Final, home and away, against Anderlecht, outside Brussels, Belgium. In the away leg, Arsenal trailed 3-0, when manager Bertie Mee sent Kennedy on as a substitute in the 77th minute. His header in the 82nd minute got them an away goal. He wasn't yet 19 years old -- "late developer," Sir Stan? -- and, for the 1st time, a newspaper printed the headline "RAY OF HOPE" about him.

The home leg, at the Arsenal Stadium, nicknamed Highbury for its neighborhood, was played without Kennedy entering the game. This time, Arsenal didn't need him: They won it, 3-0, to win 4-3 on aggregated, and claim their 1st European trophy, their 1st major trophy of any kind since the 1953 Football League Division One title.

In the 1st game of the 1970-71 season, Charlie George, considered Arsenal's best all-around player, broke his ankle. This and other injuries required a reworking of the starting lineup. Kennedy was inserted as strike partner for the established John Radford, and it worked wonders. Kennedy scored 26 goals, to lead the team.

He scored 3 goals in a home League match with Nottingham Forest; and 2 each in home League matches against West Bromwich Albion and Everton, a home match against Ipswich Town in the League Cup, and a home match against Beveren-Waas in the Fairs Cup, He seemed to specialize on headers off set pieces like corner kicks and free kicks.

"Ray had an alarming lack of self-esteem," goalkeeper Bob Wilson said. "But there was an underlying fearsome strength, an assassin's eye, and a hard-man interior."

Arsenal's defense of the Fairs Cup ended in the Quarterfinals, and they fell out of the League Cup in the 4th Round. But, once Charlie George returned, requiring another reworking of the lineup, because neither he nor Ray could be kept out of the lineup, Arsenal became the most talented team in the country.

All season long, they battled Leeds United for the League title. And they marched through the FA Cup, beating Yeovil Town away in the 3rd Round, Portsmouth at home in the 4th, Manchester City away in the 5th, and Leicester City at home in the Quarterfinal. The Semifinals are always played at a neutral site, and Ray's late goal in the Semifinal Replay knocked Stoke City out, setting up a Final against Liverpool.

Because of Arsenal's fixture backup, a game away to North London arch-rivals Tottenham Hotspur had to be moved to May 3, the Monday after the season's last Saturday. With Leeds having already finished their League season, Arsenal needed to beat "Spurs" to win the League title outright, or to draw 0-0 to win on a tiebreaker. If the draw were 1-1 or higher, the tiebreaker would favor Leeds. And Spurs were 3rd (though well behind Arsenal and Leeds), and had won the League Cup, so this was no easy task.

Officially, there were 51,992 paying customers inside Spurs' ground, White Hart Lane. Unofficially, there may have been at least that many outside. It may have been the most people who have ever attempted to see a Football League match. And, despite it being the enemy's house, most people inside seemed to be rooting for Arsenal.

The game was scoreless into the 88th minute, which served Arsenal just fine. Then George Armstrong, just 5-foot-6 but a tireless runner who was adept with either foot, sent a left-footed cross into the penalty area. Ray leapt, and sent a header past Spurs goalkeeper Pat Jennings, and, as a later song would say, it was one-nil to The Arsenal.
That made it a little nervous, because if there was a letdown, and Spurs scored, it would be having the title one minute, losing it the next. But the defense, led by team Captain Frank McLintock, held, and Arsenal were the Champions.

The FA Cup Final, in front of 100,000 fans at the old Wembley Stadium in West London, was just 5 days later, meaning Arsenal were not as well-rested as Liverpool. In addition, it was May 8, and unseasonably warm by English standards. Arsenal dominated the game, getting off at least 5 shots that came close to getting in, but couldn't get the ball across. At one point, Ray hit a shot that looked like it was going to dribble past Liverpool goalkeeper Ray Clemence, but it just missed the post, and ITV announcer Brian Moore said, "And Kennedy... Oh, what a miss!"

Regulation play ended with the score still 0-0. Just what nobody needed came: Extra time. Quickly, Steve Heighway scored for Liverpool. Fortunately for Arsenal, this was not "sudden death": The entire extra time would have to be played. First, Eddie Kelly scored an equalizer. (At first, it looked like it was George Graham, but the instant replay showed that Graham never touched the ball, so Kelly was the last Arsenal player to touch it before it went in.)

Then, Charlie George blasted a drive, followed by his famed celebration lying on the pitch. As Moore put it, "Oh, Charlie George, who can hit 'em, oh, a great goal! Charlie George! Oh, what a fabulous goal by George! Clemence had no chance with that!" Ten minutes later, the whistle was blown, and Arsenal had taken the Cup to go with the League: They had "done The Double," and the players had become legends for all time.

What few people realized was that, despite still being a teenager for a few more weeks, the seeds of Ray Kennedy's downfall had already been sown. That season, his 1st as a regular starter, he began to show fatigue after games, and he noticed that he had lost strength in his right arm.

It didn't seem to affect his game much. He remained a key cog for Arsenal. In 1972, they came close to another League title; and reached the FA Cup Final, but lost to Leeds; and got to the Quarterfinal of the European Cup, before being eliminated by Johan Cruijff's Ajax Amsterdam.

In 1973, they were even closer to the League title, and lost in the FA Cup Semifinal. Ray took some of the blame, as he had reported for the season overweight, and had been enjoying the London nightlife too much. Both his playing and his marriage to Jennifer suffered.

Mee decided to break up his team. Despite Ray picking up in form after the New Year in 1974, following his separation from Jennifer, Arsenal tumbled down the table without McLintock, and Mee went further, selling Ray to Liverpool for £200,000, a team record at the time.

Radford, in particular, was upset by the sale: "I couldn't believe it when he left, and felt it was a great shame to have broken up our partnership, which had wobbled slightly, but which I was sure would come together again with a little time." Left back Bob McNab, referring to the north end stand of Highbury were Arsenal's most passionate fans stood on a terrace, said, "I would have sold the North Bank before I sold Ray Kennedy."

Whether the sale of McLintock or the sale of Kennedy was, from an Arsenal perspective, Mee's biggest mistake, is debatable. What cannot be debated is that it was the last transaction as Liverpool manager for Bill Shankly, who restored them to glory in the mid-1960s, and it was a masterstroke. "Maybe it will be said that one of the last things I did at this club was to sign a great new player," Shankly said.

*

Despite having won the FA Cup in 1974, Liverpool were also in transition, as Shankly stepped aside for his assistant, Bob Paisley. But Shankly had given Paisley an excellent foundation to work with, especially with the addition of Ray. Clemence was still in goal. Phil Neal, Emlyn Hughes and Alan Kennedy (no relation) led the defense, John Toshack and Ian Callaghan were in midfield, and Heighway and Kevin Keegan were the forwards.

Paisley moved Ray from forward to midfield. In those days, uniform numbers were assigned to a position, not a player, so Ray switched from his usual 10 to 5. Paisley was confident the position switch would work: "Ray Kennedy was born to play. A natural, great ability, and an obvious Liverpool player who could be molded. I knew he could play anywhere."

The change of scenery helped. He even got back together with Jennifer, and they had a daughter, Cara, and a son, Dale. He helped Liverpool win the League in 1976, 1977, 1979 and 1980; the UEFA Cup (formerly the Fairs Cup and now the Europa League) in 1976, and the European Cup (now the UEFA Champions League) in 1977, 1978 and 1981. In the 1981 Semifinal against Bayern Munich, his goal was a key moment.
Ray (right) with teammate and carousing partner Jimmy Case,
holding the 1977 European Cup

Despite his success with 2 of England's greatest teams, he was rarely called up to play for the national side. (Unfortunately, this was not unusual: Both England and Scotland tended to overlook the Arsenal players from their respective "countries.") Alf Ramsey, who had managed England to the 1966 World Cup, consistently favored veterans over young players, and he rarely picked Arsenal players except for midfielder Peter Storey, mainly due to Storey's renowned toughness.

Ray didn't appear for England until March 24, 1976, by which point Ramsey was gone and former Leeds manager Don Revie was in charge. He scored in a win over Wales in a friendly. But Revie and the next England manager, Ron Greenwood, always seemed to favor Trevor Brooking as England's left-side midfielder. (In Greenwood's case, it was understandable: He had managed Brooking at West Ham United.)

Ray played for England 17 times, mostly in a defensive role. Paisley wrote in his memoir, "For England, he was played quite wrongly in a defensive role." In 1981, Ray announced, "I feel more pride in the red jersey of Liverpool than the white shirt of England," and, "I am resigning here and now as Greenwood's bridesmaid."

By this point, things weren't so good off the field. Ray and teammate Jimmy Case became "partners in crime," and left a trail of broken bottles, hearts and hotel rooms in their wake. Ray later said, "It was a good friendship, but we were bad for each other."

Case was sold after the 1981 season, and it had a bad effect on Ray. He had never been sent off before, but, early in the 1981-82 season, his behavior led to it happening twice. And his physical difficulties, minor for years, began to be more noticeable. He was suddenly being accused of laziness.

A solution to his team problem was found when former teammate Toshack, now managing Swansea City in his native Wales, purchased his contract. He helped them win the Welsh Cup, and his 15 appearances for Liverpool meant that, even though he was no longer with them at the end of the season, he received another League winner's medal. Toshack named him Captain for the 1982-83 season.

But in mid-season, he injured his hamstring, and his comeback was more sluggish than could be expected. Even Toshack bought into the idea that Ray was being lazy, and stripped him of the captaincy, even suspending him for 2 weeks. Swansea were relegated to Football League Division Two, Toshack was fired, and Ray was sold to Hartlepool United in County Durham -- not far from his Northumberland youth, but in Division Four.

They named him player-manager, but he found playing more difficult than ever, and left. In 1985, former Liverpool teammate Colin Todd signed him for lower-league team Ashington, but he could only make 6 appearances. Not yet 34 years old, he had played his last game.

*

Ray was diagnosed with Parkinson's disease. He became involved with the Parkinson's Disease Society, and made appearances for them. As a result, he got to meet Muhammad Ali, who was also dealing with the disease. He became an assistant coach at Sunderland, not far from his Northumberland home and bought a pub.

But in 1987, things went from bad to worse. Angry that he continued to be unfaithful despite his diagnosis, Jennifer called him out. He responded by punching her in the face and kicking her down the stairs. Being a famous athlete and not well probably saved him from prison, but the marriage was over, and his pub license was revoked.

His prescription of L-DOPA lost its effectiveness, but he responded well to apomorphine. His finances were wiped out by his illness, his divorce, business issues and tax issues. His membership in the players' union, the Professional Footballers' Association, paid his medical expenses. His medication took a bad turn when he was diagnosed with "extreme paranoia," so it was changed, and he recovered.

On April 27, 1991, Arsenal hosted Liverpool in a testimonial match, to assist with Ray's medical expenses. Despite a goal from Kevin Campbell, Arsenal lost, 3-1. It wasn't enough: In 1993, he sold his medals, and published an autobiography, titled Ray of Hope. A foundation of the same name was started, to help Parkinson's patients. From a relationship around this time, he became a father again, to a daughter named Alannah.
The testimonial, his former teams giving him a guard of honor

Interviewed in 2004, he said that he was alone, and that the side effects of his medication included hallucinations, which is apparently not all that rare among Parkinson's patients. He said, "Sometimes, I'm too jumpy. Or too slow. You don't know how you're going to feel. You just can't control it. It's a very frustrating illness."

A Liverpool fan bought Ray a computer, and he was able to get in touch with fans through chat rooms, reaching a whole new generation of fans who'd thought (correctly, until then) that his condition made him unreachable.
Ray at Anfield, 2009

Ray Kennedy died yesterday, November 30, 2021, at the age of 70.

* Bob Wilson: "He was a lovely, lovely guy, but what stands out was his incredible shyness, the modesty he always showed. He was quiet and unassuming. He never boasted. There was never 'the great I am.'"

* Alan Smith, who played for Arsenal a few years later: "A very graceful player embedded in the history of @Arsenal & @LFC."

From his Liverpool teammates:

* Alan Kennedy: "Saddened to hear the news of Ray Kennedy passing. Wonderful player and even better person."

* John Aldridge: "Yet another magnificent Ex LFC star has passed away folks. Ray Kennedy what a player and lovely bloke who suffered so much with Parkinson's disease for most of his life. He will definitely never walk alone."

Phil Thompson tweeted: "More sad news with the passing of Ray, what a great player and such a wonderful teammate RIP pal YNWA."

* Ian Rush: "I was very lucky to have played with Ray Kennedy in my early years. A true legend of the game."

Among the members of the 1971 Arsenal Double team: Ray was predeceased by George Armstrong in 2000 and John Roberts in 2016. Wilson, McNab, Storey, McLintock, Graham, Radford, Kelly, Charlie George, Pat Rice, Peter Simpson, Peter Marinello and Sammy Nelson are still alive.

In Ray's memory, I'm posting links to the American and British organizations for Parkinson's disease research.